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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Hi Murf. Happy you're back posting!
Your description seems to be pretty much what I did. I'm happy enough that my uneducated sense of what should be done turns out to be somewhat conventional. I toe-nailed in the wedges but hangers and gusset plates (plywood strips) would be better. Even I have some interest in brevity so I'll restrain myself from describing the details, but here might be some interest in rescuing buildings so I will go on a length to outline what I did. Maybe there are better ways.
My last effort was on a typical unequal wall height shed--nothing was holding the tops of the loaded walls together except the rafters. I installed cleats level and at the same height on each loaded wall and then toe-nailed 2x4 tie beams from wall to wall to give me level tie-beams directly below each rafter. I put double 2x8 beams along the length of the shed across the top of the beam (to save headroom). Posts from the tie-beams to the rafters were used on the high rafter side of the beam and cross braced back to the beam. Only cross braces were used on the low side. The cross-bracing wedges the beam to a vertical. Wedges between the beam and rafters were cut a bit over-length, banged in and toe-nailed. My version of remedial roof work was cutting the shorter posts and wedges more over-length than the shorter ones. I toe-nailed the tie beams to the bottom of the beam reasoning that load from the posts to the tie-beams would still transfer to the beams through the nails.
I put jack posts under the beam and jacked it up (keeping the beam level) until there was considerable load on the beam. Finally, I cut 8x8 posts to measured length and installed them plumb under the beam and removed the jack posts. Maybe the design could have been from a more educated perspective, but the shed has been through four seasons of snow-load now and hasn't budged. The main idea of the design was to build a true level and plumb support structure inside the shed and connect it to the structure that is neither level nor plumb.
I do see pro work around here that uses notched beams. There may be some advantage to notches. Over-width timber is used to allow for the notches.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Just one more thought, if you were to take the money it will cost to modify your garage and put it into the diffrence of going from a 990 to a 4000 series with folding rops from the factory where would you come out? Just looking at it from a diffrent angle.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Yep, I chuckled when I read Craig's comment. It's easy to get so focused on solving a problem that's presented that alternatives which make the problem irrelevant get missed.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
I just shortened the ROPS on mt L2500 by 1 inch to clear the garage door header. It was a two peice ROPS and only took about 3 hours to do. It looks great you can't even tell it was shortened except for an extra hole.
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03-19-2003, 06:46 
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