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 12-13-2009, 20:40 Post: 167469
kwschumm



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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

There are lots of shipping container companies around here that work with the Port of Portland so availability shouldn't be a problem. Tomorrow I'll do some price shopping. A 20 footer should be OK but I'm hoping to find a taller one so the tractor roll bar won't have to be dropped first. That would be an accident waiting to happen.

Security isn't so much the issue as is protection from rain and snow. After all a sawzall can cut through a framed wall or garage door pretty easy too.






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 12-14-2009, 07:42 Post: 167473
hardwood

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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Thanks for the info on the containers.
I really don't need one right now, but you never know.
I'll keep a sharper eye out for them. I see them on a regular basis on passing freight trains and an occasional one on a low boy semi, but can't recall seeing one sitting as a storage unit. I realize this wouldn't be a good soultion for tractor storage, but I have several friends who use old semi trailers for storage, they seem to be a dime a dozen locally. One guy in particular has a sawmill and uses them for lumber storage after it's been thru the kiln, he must have six or eight of them. Another fellow has a heating/AC/plumbing business in a small town. He has two or three of them sitting around till the city comes down on him because some neighbors complain. He borrows his brothers semi tractor to move them around a bit till somebody squaks again. The people who complain about his trailers don't hesitate to call him at midnight if their furnace quits.
Merry Christmas.
Frank.






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 12-14-2009, 17:01 Post: 167493
kwschumm



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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Called a couple of places on a 20 foot container.

Prices range from $1695-1895 depending on how many dents I'm willing to accept, plus ~$200 delivery (40 miles).

There's a good place next to the house for it to sit, but in the future I may want to move it behind the house. Are there any tricks to moving a 5000 lb. container with a 32hp tractor?

Maybe instead of buying a 7x16 flatbed trailer a wider one would be better so the container could be winched and moved.

Once the shop is done it sure seems like these would be a good place to season firewood (assuming ventilation and no condensation).






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 12-14-2009, 17:10 Post: 167494
Murf



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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwschumm | view 167493
Are there any tricks to moving a 5000 lb. container with a 32hp tractor?



As a student of Archimedes I can tell you without doubt, leverage and hydraulics can allow a small thing to do great work.

A small hydraulic cylinder will easily allow the raising of one end, remember, a 5k pound container doesn't sit on just one point, lifting one corner or end is a lot less weight.

We use a surplus mobile home axle on a jig that catches the standard mounting / lifting points on the container at one end, and a tongue that similarly catches the points on the other end to just convert it into a trailer.

However, we've also moved them quite a ways by just jacking them up and rolling logs under them, instant rollers!! As you pull it stop when a roller comes out from under the back, and put it back in front. Likely 4 or 5 logs is all it would take.

Best of luck.






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 12-14-2009, 17:20 Post: 167495
kwschumm



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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Thanks, Murf.

I'm taking a welding class at the local community college starting in January. Maybe I'll make some container axle and hitch ends as my project Smile






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 12-15-2009, 06:28 Post: 167503
earthwrks

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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Some 10' Schedule 40 or 80 6" pipe works great too. The area should be free from anything that will prevent easy rolling like small rocks---think: grocery basket caster stuck on a pebble.

When I moved portable garages I did it this way using only my 33hp blue. I used the box blade as a pusher. You can guide it or steer it easily this way. And as far as steering, per se, whatever way you arrange the logs/pipes generally the unit will follow, think: roller conveyor used to move boxes in a factory.






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 12-15-2009, 08:16 Post: 167504
kwschumm



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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthwrks | view 167503
Some 10' Schedule 40 or 80 6" pipe works great too. The area should be free from anything that will prevent easy rolling like small rocks---think: grocery basket caster stuck on a pebble. When I moved portable garages I did it this way using only my 33hp blue. I used the box blade as a pusher. You can guide it or steer it easily this way. And as far as steering, per se, whatever way you arrange the logs/pipes generally the unit will follow, think: roller conveyor used to move boxes in a factory.



I think rolling on pipes will be out, it will be placed on gravel Smile






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 12-15-2009, 08:25 Post: 167506
hardwood

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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Never moved a shipping container, but did move a portable building with 4 X 6 skids under it once using the rolling pipe method. I had the same issue, gravel. I had some 2 X 12 planks I laid diwn for the pipes to roll on. It made for some extra carrying around to the other end work, but you'll only do it once.






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 12-15-2009, 10:15 Post: 167518
Murf



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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Ken, gravel is actually one of the easiest things to roll on.

The edges lock it together and prevent the rollers from settling in. This is why it's used on roads in the first place.

I think if you do the math you'll find that even using relatively small rollers the load per square inch is surprisingly low.

Best of luck.






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 12-15-2009, 14:34 Post: 167523
hardwood

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 Need advice for a trailer for hauling a car

Murf;
I was on fresh non compacted "gravel", (crushed limestone).
On compacted gravel you are correct, and I wouldn't have needed the pipe rollers, the 4 X 6 skids would have slid fine.

OK, now just to clarify a point. I think "gravel" is a loosely used term to describe most any form of aggregate spread on a road.
Here the loose term "gravel" usually means crushed limestone. But before crushed limestone was so readily available the old timers did use red gravel from gravel pits on the roads here that was a mix of non screened small round pebbles with red soil mixed in. The crushed limestone wa a big improvement because it does interlock as you say to make a more firm road when it rains, the red gravel just went to mush in a rainy spell.
Merry Christmas. A very important fellow lets me share his birthday on the 25th.
Frank.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Trailers Forum

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