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11-15-2006, 14:35

Post: 136956

earthwrks

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Decks - Nail or Screw

I dunno about a framing nailer---I've got a Paslode 30 degree and it has a pointed tip that when it shoots a nail tends to bounce enough to scar the wood; on a fence which is what I bought it for it's not that big of deal but on a deck, I would use a screw. There are ceramic-coated screws now too (at Lowes), and/or you might want to try using the type of screw used for composites which have a different under-head-design that looks like a bugle. It is supposed to not shred the material around the hole so badly. Galvaized nails might be the ticket too.

I your back gives you problems and you want to use screws, and the screws are the right kind, there's a unit (I think) made by DeWalt that either attaches to the screw gun or is a dedicated unit that has about a 3 foot extension on it that allows you to screw standing up. It uses collated or similar type of screws.

I would also go with a square-drive head screw vs. a Phillips.

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11-15-2006, 16:13

Post: 136966

earthwrks

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Decks - Nail or Screw

SG, have you used the special screws used for composites on regular wood? Just wondering if that would reduce micro-splintering.

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11-15-2006, 18:19

Post: 136969

earthwrks

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Decks - Nail or Screw

I've heard that the lower end composites need more structure beneath them (joists) because they can't span the typical 18" spacings.

And the copper treatment; it used to be with the old stuff any thin aluminun touching it was quickly eaten away like trim work.

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11-16-2006, 09:26

Post: 136994

earthwrks

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Decks - Nail or Screw

Wing can you explain the pyhsics behind "When putting down the deck boards, alternate the grains, one board Grain UP,
the next Grain DOWN. It easy to do by looking at the ends of the board. This helps to prevent curling."

I'm at a loss to figure out how doing this keeps the boards from curling. I was taught to lay the cup down which will help shed water. If the cup is up, it will hold water and increase cupping.

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SG, have you used the special screws used for composites on regular wood? Just wondering if that would reduce micro-splintering.

I've heard that the lower end composites need more structure beneath them (joists) because they can't span the typical 18" spacings. And the copper treatment; it used to be with the old stuff any thin aluminun touching it was quickly eaten away like trim work.

I've heard that the lower end composites need more structure beneath them (joists) because they can't span the typical 18" spacings.

And the copper treatment; it used to be with the old stuff any thin aluminun touching it was quickly eaten away like trim work.