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 11-16-2006, 05:31 Post: 136987
wingwiper



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 Decks - Nail or Screw

Not sure where the previous post went, I posted and it never appeared.

When putting down the deck boards, alternate the grains, one board Grain UP, the next Grain DOWN. It easy to do by looking at the ends of the board.

All wood will expand and contract with the changes in the weather and in the air. Oak is some of the worst and I have had screwheads snap off like little bullets if they were screwed in too tight.

Pick a DRY day and be sure the wood is dry, for if you try to install when there is too much moisture in te air or the wood is not entirely dry, come the first dry day, you will be ripping up your feet on SCREW heads that are sticking up.

As Murf said, pre drill your boards and countersink the heads in to below surface level. Never over tighten, allow for expansion. I use Neoprene washers to ensure my Stainless steel screws are not too tight and then I only draw up snug.

When fitting boards, be sure to allow for expansion, even in length, doing so will prevent one board expanding and pushing against another and causing curling or warping.

Once finsihed, be sure all wood is dry and then seal it with a good sealer, if you want to really control expansion (but NOT stop it) spray the edges and bottom and top of boards. Just like with a Front door, if you only treat one side, then the other side will expand more and like lift on an aircraft wing, will warp.

Some simple techniques will allow your deck to survive all weather conditions and heat changes with little affect to its appearance.

Good Luck






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 11-17-2006, 06:29 Post: 137022
wingwiper



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 Decks - Nail or Screw

My error,

I have only built decks with ship lapping or tongue and groove. The ones I have built were eventually going to be enclosed and were built with that in mind. I didn't even think about exspansion gaps between the boards, the ones I have built were also going to have Winter storage underneath them. Under mine is some real OLD Barn Hay Rack being stored, no way I want it to get wet.

Hard

I build furniture as well, tell me I have run some 9/4 Black Cherry thru the Planer and I have New Blades and only trim less than a 1/16 at a time and I get this feathering. In the past I have been taking a small Propane torch and burning the wood lightly and then Palm Sanding with fine grit. Any suggestions to save some time?

I tried to post a reply at least five times before this one, so you may see some others pop up.






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 11-17-2006, 09:18 Post: 137029
wingwiper



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 Decks - Nail or Screw

Hard

This Black Cherry was originally Garage dried (basement of house) and I bought it and brought it home. I have it under my Deck and it has aborbed alot of moisture, so what you say may well be the case. The moisture may have brought more of the resin to the surface.






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