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Regrind over asphalt
Basically you guys are on the right track about soup. Yes the ground is frozen, yes it won't take water, and yes it won't support weight.
Stone dust or crushed stone with fine particles will return to rock-solid--once dry. Anything with water as a lubricant or "loosener" will be soup or even be able to move once driven on, or just settle as the air pockets work their way out.
Concrete or any paving product will offer a better roadway if the base is dry and compacted.
You can drive over a pad of concrete over a wet base IF the concrete can withstand the weight and more importantly distribute the weight.
Asphalt is different in that it is inherently flexible, so you need an even better/stronger base to support it and the weight above it.
You can put grinds over anything. BUT unless you have a good base or put it on extremely thick so that it doesn't flex as much, it will crack even quicker and more than regular asphalt. And it should be spread as soon as possible before in congeals(sp) and returns to being like uncompacted asphalt. And mixing dirt with it while spreading nullifies the desired result as the particles will not stick together as well.
And at least in my area of metro Deeetroit, there are three types or grades of asphalt. The "homeowner grade" stuff is crap. Even weeds and grass can break through it from underneath. Some pavers will offer a special vegetation killer to prevent premature breakage for about $200.
Commercial applications have a thick base about 4" thick that is strong and has larger stones in it; the "top coat" isn't as strong, has smaller stone chips in it and can be easily stripped off when needed. And it should have a sprayed-on binder coat between layers, otherwise water will get between the layers and separate them.
The county south of us uses a flaked or chipped limestone (we have 5 quarries nearby who may have cut a deal on the stone) that they nicely spread on the roads. It's smoothed and compacted and then a liquid asphalt(?) is sprayed on it in the same fashion as a dust control truck. At first glance it looks like regular asphalt. It doesn't hold up to truck traffic--but then again what does?
Florida has a version of this but it uses crushed oyster shells. Saw it on TV's "This Old House".
In Mississippi on the Coast they put down as much as a 12-18" of the non-crushed oyster shells which amazingly make for a light-weight but extremely strong base. Then they put about 2-4 inches of crushed limestone. I saw many a 80,000lb truck drive over their driveways only giving an inch or so. BUT as soon as they drove off where it was not spread (like I did) they sank 2-3 feet immediately with "chocolate milk" bubbling up. No joke.
There is another version of this available in the eastern part and in the midwest of the US--in urban areas where dumps are scarce or cost-prohibitive, there were/are companies large and small that recycled asphalt roof shingles by running them through a standard wood chipper or grinder. The ground product is then just loaded onto trucks and spread like dirt. No coatings are needed. I assume the asphalt already in the shingles recombines to make the roadway surface. Nails were magnetically removed at the recycle site.
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Regrind over asphalt
My buddy had about 40 yards of grindings dropped in his driveway. He didn't spread them right away. They sat for a few days in the summer sun and they started to recombine. He did a poor job of spreading it. A few years later he had me uise my backhoe to break it up. I could barely get through it to break it up. Once it was broken up- and respread it was never the same--always had ruts and soft spots.
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