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Decks - Nail or Screw
Use screws and buy good quality screws. Nails will eventually pop up after many years and you will be hammering them back down each year. A real pain when trying to shovel snow off the deck. Cheap screws can snap after a few years where there is tension. You will be drilling them out and replacing them. I've seen both problems on both cedar and pressure treated.
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Decks - Nail or Screw
My error,
I have only built decks with ship lapping or tongue and groove. The ones I have built were eventually going to be enclosed and were built with that in mind. I didn't even think about exspansion gaps between the boards, the ones I have built were also going to have Winter storage underneath them. Under mine is some real OLD Barn Hay Rack being stored, no way I want it to get wet.
Hard
I build furniture as well, tell me I have run some 9/4 Black Cherry thru the Planer and I have New Blades and only trim less than a 1/16 at a time and I get this feathering. In the past I have been taking a small Propane torch and burning the wood lightly and then Palm Sanding with fine grit. Any suggestions to save some time?
I tried to post a reply at least five times before this one, so you may see some others pop up.
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Decks - Nail or Screw
I saw what Murf suggested on one of those TV Do-it-Yourself shows. It looks real clean. I've always used screws but never have used cedar boards. Regular boards warp by twistin and heaving. Screws in that case are the only way to go. I always pre-drill the holes and c'sink them for an even, straight look (the engineer in me). To c'sink, I use a considerably larger nominal size drill and clamp a shaft collar around it. I use that as a drill stop to get even depth control.
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Decks - Nail or Screw
WING; Really don't recall having that problem, but I know there are several different specie of cherry and maybe I've never had black cherry. I've found that dull blades will cause some tearout in gummy cherry, maybe that isn't the correct name for it but it's what we call it around here. It has the dark spots about 1/4-1/2 in. in diamater scattered in the grain. The sawmill where I get it from said they used to sell it for barn lumber, but now he gets a premium for it. I don't really know a lot about it, but I think it is pockets of resin that somehow get trapped in the wood. A little more on the subject of air drying lumber. I've got several old what we called "Monkey Ward" "Lo Load 60" wagon gears that usually sell for 50 bucks on an auction that make real neat lumber drying racks, then you just pull it to the shop, take off what you need and put it back in the shed.
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Hard
This Black Cherry was originally Garage dried (basement of house) and I bought it and brought it home. I have it under my Deck and it has aborbed alot of moisture, so what you say may well be the case. The moisture may have brought more of the resin to the surface.
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Decks - Nail or Screw
I used 10d galvanised ring nails on my cedar deck,,,,,,,,,,,,,,no problems. Screws are prpbably better if you have the time and $$.
JP 
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Decks - Nail or Screw
I used deck screws and still had a few boards lift breaking the heads off the screws , Craig.
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I would use screws. Finished my 24' by 30' decl last year. 3 screws with pilot holes every 16". That was a lot of drill time. I used the ones from Lowes that are coated tan. Supposed to be that special coating (I am no expert). So far so good.
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11-16-2006, 18:59 
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