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New Implements
Murf,
I think that one of the more overpriced, and technologically straightforward would be a PTO leafblower.
Lar
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Murf, I'm in the process of building a "poor mans grapple" for the FEL on my Kubota. I need to thin some spruce woods and need a way to pile the pulp/sawlogs after they're cut to length. The lower two grapple arms will be solidly attached to the FEL arms and extend beyond the FEL arms by two-three feet (bucket removed). The upper grapple arm or arms will be attached to a quick attach faceplate that I bought from an equipment dealer. This upper arm will also be two-three feet long and will curve slightly toward the lower to hold the log. I should be able to drive up to a log, drop the grapple around it and just use the bucket curl valve to clamp onto the log. Again, the lower arms are fixed to the loader frame. When closed the upper and lower arms will point about 45 degrees down from horizontal so the log will roll out easily. The simplicity of this grapple is that extra hydraulics are not needed just the loader hydraulics. At first I thought of just using pallet forks but then realized that getting a log to roll off the forks and end up in a neat pile would not be easy.
Comments accepted from anyone...
Dave
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Dave, I understand what you're trying to do, but can't help thinking you're making it more complicated than it needs to be.
The first big problem you're going to have is if the bottom arms are fixed to the FEL frame you won't be able to adjust their attitude, or rotate them like you could with a set of pallet forks. This means you will have a bear of a time trying to stick the forks under a log since they will be locked in position, with only a vertical adjustment. Also, without rotation you have no way to roll them back and transfer the weight in.
IMHO, what you have to do is make the TOP frame close on the bottom, not the other way around.
If you already have a QT plate for your machine, mount a set of pallet forks to it. You then have the option of either going really cheap, chain or rope to kepp the logs in place, or fancy, hydraulically (or sprung like a mouse-trap) closing grapple on top.
Best of luck.
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Murf,
I didn't read all the response's you got but here is my two cents.
I have recently purchased a new 7500. I want to move dirt,
Blow snow, and mow and mulch.
My problem is the mow and mulch part. I am frustrated trying to find the solution. I know I can buy a mmm/bagger
2500-3000 bucks. And have to empty the bags.
I would like a rear finish Mower,for the price and convienence(removal+install) that mulches leaves enough
that you don't have to go over it or be concerned about killing the grass.But retaining the benefit of the nutrients.
How about introducing air into the deck,causing vacuum or circulation? using the drivedhaft before or after the gear box. or possbly a sm. hyd. unit?
I'll buy the first one!
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Grinder, that's not a tough one, we've been dealing with leaves on golf courses in that manner for MANY years. It just requires a bit of co-operation from Mother Nature. Here's how it works.
Use a conventional rear finish mower, side discharge only, rear discharge doesn't work, put on the most aggressive mulching blades available. Make up some pieces of flat iron half the length of your blade and drill the same diameter hole in exactly the middle, twist each end up by about 25 degrees like a propeller. Install these bladesfirst then your mulching blades so that these new blades are ABOVE the others. Set cutting height so that the blades just touch the top of the grass.
Now wait until the leaves are a little cruvnchy, or at least as dry as you think they're going to get before snow or rain hits. Driving forward over them as at a speed of approx. half that which you would normally cut at will vacuum up and mulch the leaves. The air flow created by the aggressive mulching blades and the extra blades will create quite a stream of air coming out the outlet, enough to quite satisfactorily spread whats left of the leaves around without leaving any big clumps.
If you end up with more mulch than you desire left behind then clear a small area large enough to speread out a good sized tarp in. Use large nails as pins to stake it down well and then run your machine around in an ever decreasing circle constantly blowing the leaves into the center, when you get to the point where all the leaves are on the tarp just gather the edges and drag it of to the disposal area.
Best of luck.
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Murf, I got a chance to try out my grapple yesterday. I was able to attach the lower arms to the FEL lift arms without drilling or welding to them. The lower arms point almost straight down when you drop the loader to pick up a log so the upper and lower arms are in front of and behind the log respectively when you clamp down (you don't have to get a fork under the log). Even at the highest lift there is still a slight downward angle so the log will roll off onto the pile when you open the grapple. I wish I could post a drawing, it would be easier to describe.
I cut about 15 spruce trees yesterday with base diameters ranging from 7 to 14 inches. I would yank them out of the woods, limb them at the landing and pile them there. I could then grab the tops and branches and push them out of the way. I wasn't necessarily efficient yesterday, but I should get better now that the technique is down.
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The first of the "Murf-Miester Do-Lots" line of toys, err, I mean TOOLS, is ready for field testing.
See my picture # 18.
It's not exactly a 'new' implement, but I'm certain it will prove itself VERY handy in the future.
I am in the midst of finishing up several more components of it but the first few components are done.
The base unit is a sort of quick-tach plate which in this version is designed to mate with the Kubota 4 pin system. Two pins are left in place all the time and only the bottom two pins need to be removed to swap plates or attachments.
A central part of the design is the Class 4 receiver hitch in the middle, as shown it takes a ball mount or anything else on a 2" square mount. I have so far added a snowplow mount and a 3pth adapter, both of which couple to the base plate via the 2" receiver socket. More pictures to follow. The forks are easily removeable by just sliding the round stock out to either side. The flat-back design of the forks allow you to 'dump' a load (such as a log) off without the forks swivelling and staying flat to the ground but does allow some slight rotation to conform to the ground to get under something.
This past weekend I mounted my 3pth push-broom on the 3pth adapter and quite quickly de-thatched a big area of grass. It also makes a real nifty mount for a 3pth logsplitter and the versatility of being able to adjust the height and angle was a real blessing. It is also a lot easier for two people to work around it when it is out front instead of nestled up against the back of the tractor.
It's hard to see in the picture but the paint is an almost exact match to factory colour, it was accomplished by blending 2/3 Tremclad Omaha Sunset Orange with 1/3 Tremclad Fire Red.
Best of luck.
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Since the B7800 is not equipped with position control on the three point, I have built and am testing two different position indicators for the 3-point. The design I have on the tractor now seems to nbe working very well, definitely accurate enough to know where the hitch is.
The indicator operates off a bell crank on the lift arms, and reads directly to an indicator box mounted in front of the operator. The indicator scale is graduated to give about 1/2" difference in elevation indication.
So far, repeatability of grade has been very good, and it seems to be standing up to field conditions with about 4 hrs of use on it so far. After about 10hrs of use, if it still stands up, I would believe it would be worth sharing. So far, I can't believe how ell it works. Pictures to follow. Total cost was about $200.
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Beagle, some time ago I saw a position control device a fellow had made for a slightly larger tractor, but the concept would be the same. He did a lot of rural driveway maintenance and so needed a grader like apparatus.
His system used a pair of runners like a sliegh would have, one each side of the grader. A control rod ran vertically from them to a sensor mounted on top at each side, they in turn controlled electrically-operated hydraulic valves to maintain a set elevation. The runner served to even out small bumps and smooth the movements.
By merely adjusting a sliding collar clamped to the control rod he could adjust the finished elevation with nothing more than a screw-driver.
He told me he was working on a similar type of setup using a control rod on the rock shafts of the 3pth to do the same thing with the 3pth.
Best of luck.
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Sounds like an enhancement to the system I have. Because the 3-point floats, I can only determine the elevation I have set the blade at, kind of homemade position control. To hold a given elevation with the three point, downpressure would be required. Am I understanding that he had a way of fixing the elevation of the blade, or did his system float also. Downpressure isn't something the 3pt is really designed to take very well.
I can tell if the blade is riding a high spot by watching the indicator, just can't do anything about it.
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