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Woodburning Stoves
There must be some serious design differences between my stove and yours. Do you have some sort of automatic dampener?
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Mark,
It has a temperature activated fresh air supply, which I'm not sure if that is the same thing as a damper. It is supposed to keep the temperature at a relative constant rate. I don't know what it uses as a reference though. I love everthing about the stove, top load, easy and dust free ash removal, looks good, stays warm all night. Just this dang catalyst is driving me nuts.
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A rule of thumb we use for hardwood is that it dries one inch a year. If you take a 12" round and split it once, it will dry in 3 years (6" thick and drying from both sides). Split it twice and it will dry faster. We can actually beat that rate a bit as we get months of 90 degree and hotter (115 sometimes) heat with low humidity, so we can dry oak or almond in one season. Very dry wood burns real clean.
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The smell you are experiencing may be from the stove 'seasoning'. I also have a LOPI stove and during the first fire of each season, we get a very distinct smell from the stove. After the first hot fire, there is no longer a problem. It smelled the worst during the first fire we ever had in the stove. This may be the odor you are experiencing. Get the fire good and hot and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Stephen R
""I've had it for 4 seasons now and I've went through 3 catalysts! The first one went 2 seasons the second one. Now the third only went half a season! My wood is relativly dry, but it seems like the catalyst gets fly ash on it and over heats causing it to break apart.""
I have been wondering how long the catalytic converter would last, and how I could tell when it wasn't working anymore. I haven't cleaned it at all (do you brush the fly ash off?) in the time I have used it (Dec '01 to April '02, and Oct. '02 to now) which is running steady. When it falls apart, I take it that pieces fall out of it? That is certainly going to be obvious when and if that happens. I should be getting another one soon, to keep as a spare.
Thanks for your input. I think the damper is simply a mechanical linkage that you set higher or lower to get more or less heat out of the stove by controlling the air. I don't think there is any bi-metalic strip that adjusts the air automatically (I used to have an Ashley stove that would do that). I also have a wood boiler that has a water temp sensor that controls an electric motor operated damper.
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Hi Glenn: I installed a new Lopi Liberty in my new house this fall as well. Like you, I have about 25' of chimney, the bottom 7' or so uninsulated single wall. My wood is somewhat wet, dropped over a year ago but blocked and split just this past fall. I have more soot accumulating on my glass door than I like and I am surprised with the amount of creosote I seem to have accumulating in my chimney. Since I am not yet living in the house, I pull the draft all the way out (closed) on the Liberty at night....and it burns slowly and cool...the stack temperature on the uninsulated stovepipe about 4' over the stove reads about 250 or so...cool. When I first burned, I had considerable oder from the stove and the pipe...but it is now gone for me.
I do think the trick is dry wood. I try to burn the stove as hot as I can when I am around...hopefully will clean out the chimney that way.
The wood shed is a priority for me to build this spring...and to force myself to order about 5 cords of split wood to season this summer/fall...even though I live on 44 acres of woods! There's only so much time...and I have to finish the house before I play with the firewood!
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Two have mentioned about dirty glass on the woodstve. I too had dirty glass upon the first burns in the Defiant stove. I cleaned the glass the first time, and it was a real chore. After the second time, I sprayed PAM on (stuff used on cookie sheets, and frying pans, so food won't stick). That seemed to help a lot, and the stove went a long time before I cleaned the glass again. Much, much easier to clean too. Now its been a long time, and while the glass is a bit dirty, one can still see through it.
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I use a single edge razor blade to scrape clean the glass on my fireplace glass doors, then finish off with some grease cutting cleaner. About once a week and it is fine.
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I had tried everything from razor blades to simply green on the windows. I picked up a bottle of Zap the other day at the dollar store.
I had not cleaned the window on my pellet stove all last year. I tried the Zap on it and the black wiped off in on pass. I have tried it on other thing with mixed success as with every cleaner but it sits by the stove now.
Peters
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Thanks for the tip on the Zap. I will get some. The razor blades were the best option I had found up till your reccomendation.
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