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Woodburning Stoves
Glenn, Gary L. is right on re. the smell with a new stove. I installed a Quadrafire last fall, and the owner's manual discussed this. It has to do with burning off cutting fluids/oils used in the mfg. process and curing paint. Since you have a lot of exposed inside pipe, it may take a hot fire. Ken
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I repainted a stove once with Stove paint and it did not smell very good either. With of the stove it is like a new engine and there are a lot of fumes until it bakes on.
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I repainted a stove once with Stove paint and it did not smell very good either. With of the stove it is like a new engine and there are a lot of fumes until it bakes on.
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Hi everyone,
I have a catalytic converter in my Kuma wood stove, and have found out the best way to run them. Kuma stoves are sold on the west coast, and will heat a 3500 sq. ft. house. I have never had to replace the catalytic converter, and its six years old. The first thing you need for a catalytic converter stove is a Rutland wood stove thermometer. Place this on your stove pipe, 12 inches above your stove. I bought mine at wall-mart for $6. This is a must for a catalytic stove! If you run your stove to cold you will coat your glass, catalytic converter and your pipe with creosote. To hot and you will damage your catalytic converter and could damage your stove pipe. When you over heat your stove pipe, you will get a nasty smell from the paint on your stove pipe. Never run your stove pipe temperature over 500 degrees very long, 350 to 400 degrees is best.
I clean my glass with that orange cleaner in a bottle from Sam’s club every time I start my wood stove. It’s a lot easier than waiting a week or so to clean. I then bypass my catalytic converter when I start my stove, and let the heat go straight up the stove pipe. Also I open any air inlets all the way. It’s best to use the white printed news paper and kindling with some dry split wood in 3” to 4” thin pieces that will burn faster than large pieces of wood to get the stove pipe to 400 plus degrees. I crack the door a little bit till the stove pipe reaches 400 plus degrees. I then shut off the hot air going directly up the pipe, so it will go thru the catalytic converter. If all goes right, your stove pipe temp should keep climbing, or stay a little over 400 degrees. If it gets close to 500 degrees, shut off some inlet air to keep it around 400. If your pipe temp goes down to 325 degrees or lower, crack the door, and open the catalytic converter bypass to get your stove pipe temp back to 400 degrees. If your stove glass gets black, your stove is to cold. On a good startup, your glass should stay clean. It takes a little practice to get the hang of it, but it does works great! When my stove is at the right temp, and some flames going into the catalytic converter it glows a bright orange color, and I try to keep the stove pipe temp around 350 to 450 degrees. After two to three hours or so, you can run it a little cooler. If I run my wood stove pipe at 450 degrees for more than two hours, it will get 88+ degrees in my house. Sometimes I need to open some windows to cool it down.
Jeff S
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Mark, Kay, & Everyone, An update to my burning up the catalysts. The manager of the local wood stove store said it was overheating. I never run the stove more than 550 degrees (griddle temp), and it's rated to run up to 750 degrees, although not for extended periods of time. The conclusion I came to was that in order to get the most efficiency, I'd engaged the catalyst after 350 degrees. But to get the temperature up, I would open the door allowing a rush of fresh air in. This must have caused internal temperatures soar while the griddle temp raised slowly, thus causing the premature disintegration of the catalyst. Live and learn, hopefully this will save someone the expense of a $180 catalyst. Fortunately the manager pro-rated the catalyst and only charged me $40 for a new one. Needless to say, I know where I will continue to do my business.
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You definately need to be measuring the temperature on the stove pipe as close to the catalyst as possible.
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Peters,
The Vermont Castings manual states griddle temperature.
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I would buy a thermometer and measure both places. You can over heat the pipe with a lot of draft and still have the stove relatively cool.
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Why not just take the catalytic converter out all together? Sounds like it is a big pain in the butt. I use a Fisher wood stove. They are hard to find but very well built. But if you live in one of the socialist states that requires this EPA crap .........guess there is not alot you can do.
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Wow, what a lot of good information on this topic. I have heated with wood stoves for a long time and when I got my tractor, wanted a firewood splitter to make the work easier. My best general advice is: 1- get a newer stove as they are more efficient ( more heat out of less fuel); 2- make sure you are burning dry wood. I have 3-5 years of wood drying under cover and won't burn wood that isn't at least 18 months drying; 3- get a hot fire. Usually this means burning a smaller fire. You get your creosote buildup from cooler, smouldering fires such as when you damper it down at night. This is dangerous! I don't see anybody talking about keeping the chimney clean!!!! You absolutely MUST CLEAN your chimney at least once a year. This means getting the proper brush and rods and cleaning the whole thing. Its not convenient but it is healthy work and nothing beats a blazing wood fire.
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01-08-2003, 10:07 
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