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wiring my new garage
ok this is what you need to do , as I have been doing this for 30 years now so I guess I should know. your house panel /service should be change to 200 amp first. once that is done than you will run 1.5"sk.80 pvc from house panel to garage,make it 2 feet deep in the ground, when you cover with dirt add 1 foot of dirt over pipe, then roll out caution tape over fill so you do not dig it up latter.than fill in trench the rest of way. you will need to pull in 3/ # 2 copper wires and 1/# 4 ground wire to feed 100 amp panel . 100 amps is more than you will need because how many machines can you use at once. I over sized the wire because off voltage drop you will have at 200 feet away.nice new 200 amp service at house ,and 100 amp at garage.also add 3/4# pvc in trench for phone a must. the reason why your meter wire lossen up is because it was probably alum. and not copper .alum must retighten at least once several days latter as it is soft ,so that is why I recomend using copper only better job .I hope this will help ,ps do not pay $17 a month for 2nd service use it to pay for complete up grade once kurt
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wiring my new garage
I built a 3000 sq. ft. utility building 150' from the house. I am located out in the county but the electric utility is city owned and easy to work with. This is what they came up with: a 300amp meter base that has two lugs for each conductor; underground service from service pole; the meter base is on the utility building with feed through the wall to 200 amp service/lighting panel; exterior connection to 200 amp "mobile home" service panel with 8 breaker spaces and 200 amp lugs fed through. Right now I have two meters, the one on the utility building and one with an aerial drop to the house. In the near future I will go underground to the house from the external panel to the house and remove the aerial drop and meter base and have only the single meter. Since we are in the county there is no inspection required beyond what has already ben done and I am doing all the work myself.
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wiring my new garage
be carefull with no inspection anything happens no insurance company will cover , inspections are cheap insurance.save certificate.as far as meter pans with double connections for each wire if run under ground and happins to get dug up service will short out all together must have power company to repair on pole.
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wiring my new garage
I couldn't agree more. I'm subject to codes and inspections and have done all my own work. I actually like the inspectors I've worked with.
Kully's point about insurance companies is a very good one. After we finally managed to have 500 gallons of waste oil left courtesy of a previous owner disposed of my insurance broker said: 'You know that if there had been a spill there wouldn't have been any coverage.' I said 'No, do tell.' She said insurance companies have a policy that insurance is to cover accidents and something that can be reasonably foreseen isn't an accident. That was quite an awakening but insurance in other areas may not be the same.
For electrical there is a National Code and 'code simplified' books are readily available. I think that sticking with codes is a good idea irrespective of what can be done or isn't required.
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wiring my new garage
Hi all. I am going to wire my garage with 110. Does anyone know how deep to bury the line into the ground? I live in ontario Canada, if that helps with code. Thanx!
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wiring my new garage
I'm not sure my "Electrical Code Simplified" is the current edition but the requirement is about 30" in pedestrian areas and 42" under drives for unprotected line not including the 3" of sand required below and above the line. Protection with 1.5" cedar planking above the sand decreases the depth requirements by 6".
Conduit isn't required and doesn't count as protection (it does make replacing line easier if necessary). Plumbing drain or most anything works for underground conduit sections but verticals or anything that is attached to a structure must be approved for electrical use.
The code book is available in places like bookstores and Home Hardware for around $10 and is well worth the price. One thing that's not exactly clear in code books is that book is that a disconnect is required in the garage (unless my inspector was wrong).
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wiring my new garage
When I first read this post I thought he was talking about a ground rod. Maybe not.
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wiring my new garage
Maybe just some unasked for detail here but maybe interesting to some. Supplemental grounds for outbuildings are required here only for buildings that house livestock. The main idea is to ensure that neutral and earth potentials are the same. Especially in dairy operations tingling from differences in potentials can sure put them off their food and make them cranky.
Generally supplemental grounds are undesirable since they can set up ground loops that may use power and reduce life of the grounding system. Around here grounding rods start loosing their effectiveness at around five years anyway and plates last only a little longer.
Regarding disconnects: For separate structures, a circuit breaker for a single circuit or a double breaker for two circuits qualifies. Anything else takes a sub-panel with a main breaker or a separate disconnect box. The neutral and ground busses cannot be bonded.
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wiring my new garage
I'm just wiring 110 through 3/4 pvc conduit to garage behind my house and into a breaker box.
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Gas Generator Weather Protecti
03-30-2004, 18:04 
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