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Stone Driveways
I just had a 105 tons of gravel spread on my drive. I was all set to smooth the gravel after the trucks left but it really didn't need anything. I had borrowed a rock rack so went ahead and pull some gravel into some spots the trucks couldn't reach. As long as the gravel isn't froze together they can spread it better and faster than you can with a loader.
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John, I'm coming in late on this thread and really don't have too much to say except that Murph is right about the dump method. Every stone drive I put in I have the driver set his dump gate and drive out. If you have a 500 foot stone drive, and a good tractor, purchasing a rake really isn't out of the question. I've found the best way to maintain a stone drive is with the rake. Using the bucket heel is marginally better for back grading with a small machine because it places less stress on the bucket curl cylinders, using the front edge or lip puts on the most strain. When I started landscaping I used the bucket exclusively for back grading on dirt and on stone, and wore one out at 1200 hours. A $300 used york is a lot cheaper.
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Concure totally with Ted's post. I have about 2,000 feet of gravel drive way. I had the dump truck driver spead it with his truck and periodically I maintain it with my Land Pride 1584 Landscaping rake. The rake does an excellent job at evening out the gravel and filling in low spots and does not break up the gravel pack near as much a blade.
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Hey chief, I have been using a chain harrow with the teeth pointed up. It does a great job, especially since I don't have a rake, at least the three point variety.
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I know this is an old thread, but if anyone sees this...
I plan on installing a new drive from scratch through the middle of a field. Presently it has a pretty good growth of pasture grass & layer of top soil.
Do I need to cut out the top soil and turf or can I just put down the base and then crusher run topping?
Also, in a few places, I need to remove some side to side roll. I haven't had a lot of luck with the FEL or borrowed back blade since they are both parallel to the axles.
Any suggestions?
Do they make a front (or rear) blade like a dozer that can be tilted side to side using the hydraulics?
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I would cut out 4-6" of the top soil and sod. Save it for top soil later.
A box scraper with scarfer teeth will break up the sod. Scoop out with FEL.
If you are only going to have cars or light pick ups 4" is probably plenty and just use crusher run to back fill. If you have any wet spots in it you may or should put down some ground fabric.
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We owned a family gravel business and have supplied material
for a lot of roads. I have the "roids" to prove it.
Not sure of the climate issues in Va. but here in the tundra
the accepted practice when crossing a field is:
1)stake it out and rototill it.
2)pile up that valuable loam, and subgrade.(you might need it later to dress it up.
3)Lay in your good drainage material base.
4)subgrade with a crown in the center(control that water)!May want to roll it.
5)lay in you finish product. May want to roll it.
If you don't remove the topsoil it may work it's way up into you finish and then you will have a mess.
good luck.
the sub grade is critical, as is stormwater runoff. Make a place for it to go
keep your road dry.
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JParker:
You are not too far from where I live and when I had my drive put in, I cut the topsoil out and then had shale put in then put the crusher run over it. You have to move the shale around as the truck can't really spread it. With the large dump trucks driving over it, it really helps to compact it well. The shale is less expensive and provides an excellent base. The crusher run will fill in if there are holes in the drive from the shale.
Good luck
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Pretty good road building advice, and I'd sure study the drainage and any grades required. If there are problems they have to be managed or the road will require lots of maintenance and may not always be passable. If it's in a snow area, some finishes are easier to clear than others.
I use the 3ph leveler to cut-side grades with my scraper (my leveler is crank adjustable though). I have to hold the 3ph up so only the down end of the blade cuts. It takes a few passes but eventually the entire width of the blade is on the new grade. Some back blades may have this adjustment but a 3ph leveler likely would work as well. It can be done but 3ph implements generally lack down-pressure so they don't work like a dozer even with hydraulics.
Many tillers will chew up sod. I don't have one so I use box scraper scarifiers. I first cut along the length and then go back across. The cutter usually pulls up most chunks of sod on the second pass and leaves most of the soil if the top-link is extended. The box collects the sod, and a road width likely equals about a full box. soem of the chunks are large enough to use elsewhere but I wouldn't count on too much. Laying it is sort of like solving jig-saw puzzles too.
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JParker, although Grinder didn't say so explicitly the worst thing for any travelled surface is water.
It can kill it in so many ways, frost can heave it, erosion can remove it, ice can make it impassable....
Do yourself a BIG favour, prepare the area properly and THOROUGHLY before you do anything else. Any soil or conditions that can hold moisture MUST be eliminated.
A nearby landowner at our hunt camp thought he would build an 'economy' driveway into his place, the neighbours and the local contractor tried to reason with him to no avail. They did nothing, not even remove stumps or boulders, merely laid 'B' granular (pit run) on top of what was there. His logic was to spend on material instead of machinery, thus building the drive up high enough to be above potential problems, or so he thought.
By the following summer what little bit of it that was left in place was barely manageable on an ATV.
He then had the contractor come back and dig a proper base for the driveway right beside the existing one, then he just bulldozed all the material off the top and into the hole, then added more on top again.
It probably only cost him an extra $10,000 to save a little money up front, maybe he's a politician, who knows?
Best of luck.
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