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Stone Driveways
Murf
Water is the enemy,seems like in everything you build.
It was hard to explain it in a paragraph, I was trying
to make my point with the subgrades,hard to explain the
importance to some one who hasn't done one. I am glad
you reiterated it. I wish he was closer and had a dozer
and a transit handy, I love that stuff !
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Murf
You work on golf coures right?
Check out my home town course.
Rocks were 17' deep in places.
Talk about water issues!
They put sod on the entire course.
Link:
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My license allows me to perform three classes of paving: in-situ (concrete, asphalt macadam, and synthetic), unit (brick, cobblestone, tile, slate, granite, etc.), and soft (aggregate, organic, turf, artificial turf), and as Murf explains, each has to be done right or it isn't worth being done. For the average aggregate drive, I start with a simple survey: shoot the grade. Then determine or estimate run-off, and evaluate the soil for perc. Design the plan view, mark for cut, and excavate. Typically, 24 inches deep, builtup in 6 - 8 inch lifts of one inch processed granite, compacting each lift to 4 to 6 inches below what will be finish grade. The top dress is usually dependent upon the type of pavement and can be the final paving in itself, such as half inch processed limestone or crusher run and portland 50/50 mix. Curbing, edging, drainage, and utilities all add to the price. A dozer or grader sure helps, but with determination and luck a healthy compact can make a decent showing for most of the work. However, for long term permanence, I think only a power roller will do for compaction. If done right, an aggregate drive will last longer than you think. Check your library for some simple guides such as H.L. Nichols' "Moving The Earth," and McGraw-Hill's "Landscape Architect's Portable Handbook." These are two references I'd be lost without, even after forty years landscaping.
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Grinder, not every course is built on text-book classic farmland. I REALLY wish they were.
Generally golf courses are built on land that fits into one of only two categories, in the first category are the courses that are built on 'out-lying areas' which means the land was selected because it was just beyond the premium-priced stuff near to town, generally the land is not too bad to work with. The second category is the ones that are built on land that can be most diplomatically described as 'construction challenged'. It is usually the stuff that is good for nothing else.
We have done courses that required topsoil to be made or imported from other islands, we have done courses without grass just oiled sand for the fairways & astro-turf for the greens. We have also done courses that took weeks and weeks of blasting before we could even THINK of doing any earth work.
We done them where we had to have armed guards, of course that was because of another sort of "site condition"...
Best of luck.
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Thanks for all the input. I'm going to print this out and study for a while.
It looks like I should go ahead and buy the box blade and give it a try. If I don't seem to be making enough progress, I guess it's time to call a dozer back in.
I'll see if I can get enough adjustment out of the 3 point to handle the leveling, I was just was hoping for a solution that could be adjusted on the fly.
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JParker, I don't recall if anyone mentioned it in this thread already or not (crs setting in) but if you want to speed the stripping of soil with a blade go over the subject area with a rototiller first, then scoop the loosened soil with the blade. If you are buying a box-blade get one with ripper shanks, they work well too.
It makes the process a LOT faster.
Best of luck.
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Side-level can be adjusted on the fly with a full tip and tilt setup. I think of the top-link part of it as nearly essential for scraper work and I have one. Occasionally I wish for the tilt portion but in practice I don't have to adjust the side level often enough to motivate me.
Of course, I mostly work crowns where I use the same side grade on both sides of a drive. One tilt works for both sides of the roadways. I'd definitely want tilt if I had to manually adjust the side level in order to do meaningful work going in each direction.
Doing wide shallow excavations and having to level a side-grade is a pain since there's little alternative except to lift the box and drive back the start. I have organized myself so I can do more finishing work on one side and then back up doing some rough 'cut the bumps down' work in reverse on the other side and using the rear cutter. They get to be real long days if there's much just driving around time or maneuvering required
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There is another sneaky way to achieve a side-tilt on a box-blade which is both inexpensive to add, and real fast to add, adjust or remove completely. It works on a conventional rear-blade also, but not as well.
Simply add a very sturdy trailer tongue jack to the crossbar at the front of the blade. The type with a roller wheel as a foot.
To achieve a slight lift simply crank the jack until it takes the desired amount of weight off that side of the blade. Some models affix by means of a cross drilled pipe flange, these work best since multiple mounts can be installed and the jack moved around to any of them as the need dictates.
Best of luck.
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That seems like a useful idea Murf. I know holding position with the 3ph isn't all that great with at least my hitch. The box tends to take the angle of the grade it's on irrespective of the side level adjustment. If I hold the high end off the ground with the 3ph, then the box doesn't follow the ground contour into dips or when the tractor's front wheels go over a bump. I recall hearing a discussion about some model JD where lateral float of the link arms could be selected on or off. Don't know if that's real but it would be useful for cutting side grades.
There is another thing about cutting side grades that may be obvious. Tilt on the blade needed to get a desired grade is the difference between the grade the tractor is on and the desired side-grade. The tractor's angle changes when the blade starts cutting behind one rear tire. The tilt may have to be changed. Some 'toing and froing' usually is needed. The tilt ends up level when both rear tires on the new grade.
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I think every self respecting property owner who maintains his driveway needs an old bedspring for final grading and finishing. I mean from before the modern covered box springs where around. Pile some cement blocks on top and pull away. You can have fun keeping the blocks on top while they bounce around on the springs. All the small dips in the drive will fill in nicely. The nicest part about it is that all your neighbors will be jealous when you display it as a modern art masterpiece in the front yard.
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