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 02-05-2005, 23:04 Post: 105571
HuckMeat

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 OSB Price

OSB is short for "Oriented Strand Board" - It's different than the foam sheathing, or the black insul-board.

Around here, you won't find anything except OSB on any house (except ICF Smile ). The cheapo builders use it at the corners, windows, and doors, and then the black crap everywhere else. The "good" (and really, all) builders use 3/4" OSB on the subfloors, 1/2 on the exterior, and 1/2 or 5/8 on the roof.

When I was doing my envelope this summer, OSB had gone up so much that doing ICF (Insulated Concrete Forms, Foam forms filled with concrete on site) concrete walls, even with the expensive steel prices, was CHEAPER than 2x6 stickframing.

Of course, after I bought 3/4 OSB for my roof (lumberyards don't even stock enough plywood to roof a house here) the price fell like $7 a sheet the next week.

Next time I get done buying building materials, I'll post here so everyone knows that they will be on sale soon.






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 02-06-2005, 08:07 Post: 105583
HuckMeat

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 OSB Price

For me, it was kind of moot- I was pouring 1.5" of gypsum based concrete over it anyway... The OSB seems to be doing great. With the concrete there, it makes for a VERY solid floor. I'd be surprised if it ever squeaked.


The route I would have gone, had I to do over again (and found this product before I did my engineering work) is a product called speedfloor. Steel trusses are set in pockets in yor foundation, grouted in, on 4' centers. Lock bars are installed between the trusses, and OSB/plywood is layed down between the trusses. 4" of concrete is poured, cured, and then the lock bars are knocked out, OSB falls down, and you have NO wood in your floor. Smile

With wood being the quality it is these days, I tried to use engineered wood products everwhere I could - My LVL ledgers are a lot stronger than 2x12, and don't warp/twist themselves to pieces after I install them.

Only my interior wall partitions/framing were "regular" lumber, and I had to replace nearly 20 studs because they would twist/warp as we were installing mechanicals. It was enough of a pain (and around here, at nearly $4 a stud, expensive) enough that I'm designing the barn/shop I'm going to build this summer without any wood, except the T*G Pine I'm putting inside the barn walls. Does anybody else find the same problems with the lumber in their area now-a-days?

Of course, a whole new thread would be the new pressure treated wood. Not only will it twist and split itself apart, it will eat your nails doing it! Smile






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