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Retrofit radiant floor heating
I have designed a few radiant flooring systems, mainly in new constuction. These have always been fed from the boiler system, not the domestic hot water system; however, the water temperatures would be fairly close to optimum for a radiant floor system so it might work .
I agree with your concern about circulating the domestic water directly through the floor piping, mainly because of stagnant water sitting there and then being re-circulated to your domestic hot water tank. A potable water heat exchanger would help with that by reducing the volume of stagnant potable water. The system could incorporate a timer to circulate the domestic side occasionally and minimize this problem in the off season. Stagnant water can be a breeding ground for bad things including Legionella.
Be sure to use a piping material designed for this type of service such as PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). We usually specify the piping to also include an oxygen barrier to prevent entry of oxygen through the piping. This is important if there are any ferrous metal components in the system; however, may not be needed in your application.
One of the major equipment and material manufacturers for this type of system is Wirsbo.
Most of our experience has been with piping embedded in a gypcrete or lightweight concrete slab. I have seen but not used systems that snap the tubing into a sheet metal plate installed under wood floors. That type system may be adaptable to a retrofit installation.
Does your water heater have the required heating capacity? It probably is, but just something to check.
You said the generator couldn’t run your heatpump. Is it a split system? Could the generator run the fan portion of the indoor unit? If so, you could install a hot water coil in the ductwork, and run the fan and a small pump on generator power. This is sometimes done around here as the normal source of heat where natural gas is available. See http://www.apollohydroheat.com This could become your normal aux heating system depending on electrical vs. propane cost in your area. When on generator power, since there is no power to the outdoor unit, the space temperature would continue to fall (usually only one or two degrees) until there is a call for aux heat, then the pump would start and you have heat.
If you are wired with a generator panel, put the indoor unit and pump on the generator panel, and the outdoor unit on the normal power panel. If you keep the existing strip heaters, put them on the normal power panel, and add a toggle switch somewhere to determine which aux heating system to use electric strip or hot water.
One last thought, check the size of your existing strip heater. It may be small enough to run from the generator since there is no compressor starting in rush current to deal with. 13 kw is a pretty good sized generator around here for a house. In emergency mode, many get along with 5kw units.
Hope this wasn’t an over kill answer.
- JParker
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Retrofit radiant floor heating
So much for the little strip heater concept.
No problem, as much as I have learned from the people on this board, its the least I could do.
Geothermal HP, great to hear. I really like those, very efficient when done right.
Horizontal or Vertical?
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Retrofit radiant floor heating
Sorry, I meant the ground exchanger. Is it vertical wells or horizontal trenches.
Based on the problems you mentioned, and the fact that this is very unusual from our experience with geothermal, I would like to get more details if you are interested in an opinion from an informed 3rd party.
If so, please drop me an e-mail.
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Retrofit radiant floor heating
Sorry, I though it was in my profile.
I sent you one just after my book was posted, and am working on a second with a few questions you may need to look up.
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Retrofit radiant floor heating
I'm still interested in de-bugging that Geo if you are. Check today's e-mail for shorter list of questions.
I admit to tunnel vision on the bigger picture. Although I am not a fan of any unvented heater, I agree that unvented logs or even a wall heater would do well for occasional use. The wall heater could go on an interior wall. Just not in small areas or bedrooms (check local codes...). I would also add battery powered carbon monoxide detectors as added safety if you don't already have them.
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