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 02-05-2005, 10:21 Post: 105530
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Grinder
I figured you were using 5 ply 1/2" The 3 ply is like you said, crap. Unfortunaltey if you go to the large chains around me 5 ply is a special order in most circumstances. Yes, my bad experiances is with the 3 ply.
Wonder if the standard practices are different in our locations?






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 02-05-2005, 10:46 Post: 105531
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http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publications/articles/osb_vs_plywood.html
I see your point. This is a good read also. It really looks like your instalation and application needs to be picked in the right clinate and proper way of handling. Some pro's but a few more cons?






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 02-05-2005, 13:44 Post: 105540
grinder

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The big box stores only stock items that return a min. profit. I knew a guy in management who told me that.
I believe it. Those stores are impossible to deal with.






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 02-05-2005, 22:52 Post: 105568
AnnBrush



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 OSB Price

I don't build houses but have done the occasional remodeling job, In reading your interesting discussion I had a few questions:
What (originally) did OSB stand for? It occured to me that the heat transfer on the houses that were sheathed with the foam board might well be lower than using wood, and perhaps a bit quieter (outside noise) too, with the way fuel prices are going that may become very attractive? I assume it will stand up to a regular severe storm, but not a tornado, but then again would a wooden sided house stand up to a tornado? I guess what I really want to learn from those of you who are in the know is what are the factual advantages and disadvantages of the foam sheathing.






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 02-05-2005, 23:04 Post: 105571
HuckMeat

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OSB is short for "Oriented Strand Board" - It's different than the foam sheathing, or the black insul-board.

Around here, you won't find anything except OSB on any house (except ICF Smile ). The cheapo builders use it at the corners, windows, and doors, and then the black crap everywhere else. The "good" (and really, all) builders use 3/4" OSB on the subfloors, 1/2 on the exterior, and 1/2 or 5/8 on the roof.

When I was doing my envelope this summer, OSB had gone up so much that doing ICF (Insulated Concrete Forms, Foam forms filled with concrete on site) concrete walls, even with the expensive steel prices, was CHEAPER than 2x6 stickframing.

Of course, after I bought 3/4 OSB for my roof (lumberyards don't even stock enough plywood to roof a house here) the price fell like $7 a sheet the next week.

Next time I get done buying building materials, I'll post here so everyone knows that they will be on sale soon.






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 02-06-2005, 07:02 Post: 105578
grinder

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Annbrush
I am not familiar with using foam board as sheathing and can not comment on it. I can't imagine it actually?






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 02-06-2005, 07:06 Post: 105579
grinder

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Huckmeat
I was reading a flooring contractors forum and the comment
there was that all the quality home builders use nothing but plywood?
I am not sure what the answer is, so I will stick with the plywood, it has a history.
Interesting, the different perspectives from around the country.






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 02-06-2005, 08:07 Post: 105583
HuckMeat

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For me, it was kind of moot- I was pouring 1.5" of gypsum based concrete over it anyway... The OSB seems to be doing great. With the concrete there, it makes for a VERY solid floor. I'd be surprised if it ever squeaked.


The route I would have gone, had I to do over again (and found this product before I did my engineering work) is a product called speedfloor. Steel trusses are set in pockets in yor foundation, grouted in, on 4' centers. Lock bars are installed between the trusses, and OSB/plywood is layed down between the trusses. 4" of concrete is poured, cured, and then the lock bars are knocked out, OSB falls down, and you have NO wood in your floor. Smile

With wood being the quality it is these days, I tried to use engineered wood products everwhere I could - My LVL ledgers are a lot stronger than 2x12, and don't warp/twist themselves to pieces after I install them.

Only my interior wall partitions/framing were "regular" lumber, and I had to replace nearly 20 studs because they would twist/warp as we were installing mechanicals. It was enough of a pain (and around here, at nearly $4 a stud, expensive) enough that I'm designing the barn/shop I'm going to build this summer without any wood, except the T*G Pine I'm putting inside the barn walls. Does anybody else find the same problems with the lumber in their area now-a-days?

Of course, a whole new thread would be the new pressure treated wood. Not only will it twist and split itself apart, it will eat your nails doing it! Smile






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 02-06-2005, 12:38 Post: 105596
brokenarrow



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Ann
The oriented strandboard board used to be called chip board around here. The difference now (one of many) is they call it oreiented strand because NOW they "orient" the strands or(wood shavings/chips). This gives it a sheet like effect of plywood but enables the use of smaller new growth trees. Along with glue improvements and others it has come a long way. I am learning alot from new searches and found the area of the country the trees come from (specie) makes a big difference also. Sorry go to go, take a kid to a band concert.






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