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 11-16-2006, 14:28 Post: 137003
Murf



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Actually Randy you'd be surprised how nice some "junk" wood species look all sawed up and finished into something.

Have a read over the discussion below.

Best of luck.






Link:   Cottonwood discussion 

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 11-16-2006, 14:34 Post: 137004
hardwood

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Chief; I think cottonwood is used for throw away palets, the loggers around here cut about anything for the palet industry. Not sure if these figures are still accurate but a few years ago palets were the second largest consumer of lumber after homebuilding. My Dad used to say that cottonwood was the preferred lumber for wagon boxes, hayracks, etc. because it was light and tough. I don't know how they got enough straight boards to make a wagon box. Several years ago I took a huge cottonwood log to a sawmill, hauled the boards home stacked them with stickers to dry. I put probably a ton of tractor weights on top but I still ended up with a stack of pretzels. Frank.






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 11-16-2006, 14:47 Post: 137005
Chief



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Thanks Murf and Frank. Learn something new everyday! I will have to give another look at some of these lesser utilized species. I am getting a crash course in the timber and forstry business so am always looking at new ideas.






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 11-16-2006, 15:07 Post: 137007
SG8NUC



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Hardwood

Have you tried drying hickory like that. I was told that you get the same result, stack of pretzels.






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 11-16-2006, 15:52 Post: 137009
Peters

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We dried hickory at one time in Ont with no problem. Might be the rate of drying and the straightness of the grain. There are different species of cotton wood. I have only cut the stuff on the BC coast. Basically it rots as it falls and dry it weighs as much paper. Incidently it burns about as fast. You would need about 15 cord of that stuff to equal one cord of anything else.






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 11-16-2006, 16:09 Post: 137010
Murf



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Peters is right, it is mostly the drying rate that is causing the twisting.

If you ever have to do it again, the important factors are; a) LOTS of room for air flow, b) EVEN air flow, and c) protection from the elements, sun, wind, rain, or even too much heat, like in a closed-up shed will make the nicest board twist.

I made up some brackets to keep our boards straight as they dry, they are 2"x2" heavy wall tubing with loops welded to half of them, and smooth rollers attached to the other half. A few of them are laid out like sleepers for the wood to be piled on top of, and when the stack is finished, more go on top. A cable leads from the bottom back, up & over the rollers on the top ones, then down to a cable come-along which connects to the the lower front loops. This binds the whole stack into a nice tight bundle, and the winch is periodically tightened up to keep it under tension as the wood shrinks and dries.

Just adding weight to the top of the pile usually does little, since the cumulative effect of all those boards warping just lifts the weights.

Best of luck.






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 11-16-2006, 16:18 Post: 137011
DennisCTB



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I knew an old timer that used to make his own musket loaders from scratch. He was pleased as punch when I gave him a cheery log I had just cut down. To keep it the way he wanted it for a gunstock he put a heavy coat of melted wax on the cut ends to slow the drying process.

I got to see the finished product a year later, impressive!

I don't think any of us have the time for this approach on a big scale though Wink yeah right






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 11-16-2006, 16:30 Post: 137012
hardwood

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SG8NUC; No I've never dried hickory. I have air dried lots of oak, (red and white), some walnut and quite a bit of soft maple with good results.
MURF; Soft maple never was considered much of a furniture wood till I kind of inhereited a semi load of soft maple logs. We started using it for cabinet frames, drawer sides, etc.. My son made an experimental piece of furniture, put a clear finish on it and we were pretty impressed, next thing we knew a lady came along saw it and orderd a set of kitchen cabinets out of it. it is an easy wood to work with, don't splinter in the shaper like red oak but you need to keep it moving thru a saw or shaper as it will show a burn mark as bad a cherry. Enough rambling out of me. Frank.






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 11-23-2006, 19:14 Post: 137309
ronald65



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Several years ago,I sawed a large section of a cottenwood tree up for a neighbor 36in x 16 ft long into 1x12 1x10;1x8 and 1x6 boards . he stacked them in his basement garage with stickers and several truck tires on top and covered with plastic. in less than a year it was dry and he made some nice display cases for the local Cafe. said he only had one board that he could't use. When Cottenwood is dry you almost have to drill pilot hole to avoid splitting it.Ron






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 11-24-2006, 19:24 Post: 137316
ncrunch32



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I am tired of paying $6/chain for sharpening. I seem to be using a chainsaw much more than you would think for a 2 acre lot here in NY. We just had family day at my Mom's and took down several trees just cleaning up. I just bought this northerntools sharpener for $99. I have 3 chains that need sharpening right now. I'm sure I'll have to set aside a weekend to figure out how to properly do this. Its also a matter of convenience. It's harder all the time to find someone who will sharpen chains.






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