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 11-26-2006, 08:51 Post: 137336
earthwrks

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 Chainsaw sharpeners

If I'm not mixing up my wood types, my neighbor told me he spent something like $25 for a small bag of cherry tree chips for smoking fish. At that price they should've been gold plated.






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 11-27-2006, 08:00 Post: 137351
AnnBrush



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 Chainsaw sharpeners

I was at Wally World at the weekend and saw a dremel tool attachment (grinder bit) that was for chainsaw sharpening - if you already have a dremel tool it's a cheap option, cost about $4. Anyone have any advice or comments on this route here?






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 11-27-2006, 08:58 Post: 137352
Chief



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 Chainsaw sharpeners

Ann, Harbor Freight has an electric chainsaw sharpener on sale for $39.99. I just ordered one a few weeks ago and it is not the top of the line as far as quality but for the money it appears to be a very good sharpener. I haven't tried it out yet but I will post my findings here when I do.






Link:   ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW SHARPENER 

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 11-27-2006, 09:07 Post: 137353
MacDaddy



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 Chainsaw sharpeners

I've purchaced the same one from Harbor Freight for $39.99. Should be here in a few days. I'll also post my findings. Andy






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 11-27-2006, 10:09 Post: 137354
Murf



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 Chainsaw sharpeners

The problem with these types of "sharpeners" is two-fold.

First, the stone is very small, so wear is a major issue, after just a few uses the stone will be much smaller, thus changing both the radius, and the resulting shape of the saw's tooth.

Secondly, a Dremel (or other similar sized tool) is very hard to control precisely, the end result will be over or under sharpened teeth, as well as a wide variety of shapes of the teeth.

The 'proper' tool for sharpening a chainsaw blade is much like a small power mitre box saw but with about an 8" diameter blade, usually either carborundum or diamond tipped steel. In years of regular use these blades don't wear much.

The other minor issue is one of metalurgy. With the exception of a file, any hand tool will be in contact with the tooth long enough to generate considerable heat. The big 'pro' grinders just kiss the edge of the tooth and barely take anything off, and so do not heat it enough to take the temper out of it either.

The other tip is to buy a roll of chain, and make it, or have it made into loops for your saw. Doing it this way the blades are *really* cheap on a per piece basis. You can then take a bunch of blades in at once to be sharpened. Most places will give you a big discount to sharpen 10 or more blades at once.

The end result is you always have enough sharp blades that you never have to do anything but swap chain loops and the overall cost is dramatically less.

Best of luck.






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 11-27-2006, 15:28 Post: 137366
greg_g



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 Chainsaw sharpeners

Well Murf, I only cut enough wood for one household for one Kentucky winter. So that Harbor Freight sharpener is perfectly competent. I paid $29.99 plus $3.99 for an extra grinding wheel. It sharpens my Stihl chains beautifully. Ordering printed catalog number 93213-8BCB gets the $29.99 price.

Heat is a function of the operator, specifically the amount of care taken in adjusting the sharpener TO THE CHAIN. Another reason I bought my own sharpener is that - when I'd get my chains back from the farm store ($5.00/chain) all the cutting edges would be burned blue. Now, I don't burn the chains - and paid for the sharpener after doing only six chains myself.

//greg//






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 11-27-2006, 15:56 Post: 137370
hardwood

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 Chainsaw sharpeners

I used to have the lowest cost sharpening service known, FREE. My father in law was an independent garage owner from the time he was a teen ager till he was forced to retire with bad feet in his mid 50's. Never being a man to sit still or non productive he bought a chainsaw sharpening device that looked like a miter saw. as he moved the chain along in the clamp the sharpener would rotate from left to right so it could sharpen right hand and left hand teeth by only pulling the chain thru once. I don;'t remember what he charged to do a chain or overhaul a saw. He must have had a dozen or so to sharpen most days, people started giving him old saws they had given up on and he made most of them run again. It kind of got to be a social gathering point for the town loafers, they would bring one chain at a time just to catch up on the news. He's now in a nursing home, but that little sharpening business was on of the joys of his life for a good many years. I have no idea what brand of sharpener he had or where it ever went. Frank.






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 11-27-2006, 17:19 Post: 137378
kthompson



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 Chainsaw sharpeners

If any of you mentioned this I missed it: the way the shops sharpen chains does vary. Some do a much better job than others. So if you use a shop, and are not pleased you may be with another one. Try talking with who does the sharpening. You will probably know before they do the work if you will be pleased.

I do wonder if the Harbor Freight model holds it angles. Will be looking for those post. The hand file method is old for me. The dremel tool does just like someone said, the stone wears so fast your teeth vary.






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 12-07-2006, 19:56 Post: 137724
kthompson



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Update time: Has anyone else used their Harbor Freight or the now only $99 (less than half price) Northern Tool sharpner.

Harbor Freight is about 60 miles away and with it cold this Saturday may be a good day to ride.






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 12-07-2006, 22:16 Post: 137725
greg_g



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Update on mine (Harbor Freight $29.95); it continues to sharpen my Stihl and Oregon chains just fine. But a friend brought over an Echo chain the other day, and I think he ruined it. The chain is so light duty (skinny) that the chain clamp wouldn't grip it at all. I narrowed the sharpener track to absolute minimum, but that Echo chain still jumped every time the wheel came down

//greg//






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