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clutch motor
Hi fellow "Gatorites",
I just purchased a (very) used 6X4 Gator, with a few problems (many).
First item I am concerned with is the clutch thingy. The clutch on the motor is continuiously engaged, which in turn is running the transaxle clutch making it impossible to shift from neutral to forward or reverse while running. I haven't tried reducing the idle speed, yet, but I think it may be more than that. The Gator is old (no ID plate to be found) so I don't know which service or operators manual to order. I called JD to see if there is such a thing as "one manual fits all", but the fellow I talked to said I need the ID number. I also need the wiring diagram, because the previous owner did some "creative wiring".
I have the engine make and ID, but not the chassis.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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clutch motor
hey duffo,
i as well bought into the 'adopt a broken down gator' club.
i bought two for 50 bucks! very rusty!! every connection corroded,the chassie on one is rusted right through,(it sags right to the groung when you sit in it!) but the other is a bit better. it starts and runs great. the clutch is a bit noisy but it drives fine. i'm having a bit of trouble with it overheating, checking the fan switch and bleading the air out is my next job.
a good read though all the posts will give you a lot of valuable info on your new ride for sure.
and we've got GATORAIDER and his wealth of knowledge.
brian
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clutch motor
Gatoraider really seems to know them.
I wonder if JD sold a lot more of the Gators how their tractor sales would be? The only green we have is a Gator and does not make me wish my pumpkins were green at all.
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clutch motor
Duffo, first many thanks for the kind words from your two previous posters. Sometimes you fix them and they don't bother to tell you, just go on their merry way. Your problem is idle RPM being too fast. You will never get the driven clutch to stop turning, but lowering the idle speed will let you shift the transaxle. I shoot for 1050 RPM,(Deere calls for 1100)but 1050 seems to work well. If you don't have a tach, go to tinytach.com, get their phone number and call them. There is a lady there that is very helpful and can tell you which one to get. As far as your serial number, look on the upper frame rail under the passenger seat. The number should be etched in the frame under a plastic cover. Your number should be WOO6X4XOO????. If it isn't there, you have an old one '93 probably. I think the tech manual you need is TM1516. You probably have an AS-11 motor and they have a completely different carb linkage and governor set up.
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Gatoraider,
I can see why Brian and KT speak highly of you! You gave me more information in 1 paragraph than numerous calls to JD (and the "not technically trained" reps. I've talked to)Makes one wonder who's answering the phone at JD.....whatever. It's raining as I write this, so I'll have to check out the ID thing later...got it under a tarp.
You are "right-on" about the engine. It's a FD620D-AS11, just as you said, and I sort of figured it was of early vintage. As for the RPM, I don't have a tach, but I turned it down so it stalled and the clutch was still engaged. (Plan on rebuilding the carb soon). It(the clutch)probably needs repair or rebuilding. My neigbor, who is pretty engine savy, pointed out that the length of the belt and the proper distance between the two clutches is important, but I think the clutch is just plain bad......plus a few other "goodies"......one being the electronic fuel pump...among others. Question: Are the clutches what was once called "centrifugal" or "variable speed" clutches?
Thank you so much for the help you have given thus far. I hope this is the beginning of many more discussions. 
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Yes, your clutch is a centrifugal type. If you are idling your motor down until it stalls and the drive clutch is not unloading enough to let the belt rest on the center post between the sheaves,then you have some major drive clutch problems. You need a clutch tool to get it off, and a clutch tool kit to get the clutch apart. Sounds like you have a broken center spring and Iam sure your rollers are flat spotted. If the movable sheave is loose on the center post when you rock it side to side, it's probably not worth fixing. As far as distance between the clutches, that is not adjustable. Also you should have a rod that goes from the transaxle to the motor to hold both in place under acceleration.
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Thanx Gatoraider,
One (of many to come)question....well. two. 1.) Is the "moveable sheave" you mention also called the "spider"? I have a couple of pages of a repair manual that came with the machine and it has a "blow-up" of parts. It's a three pronged device that seems to be pretty important. 2.)If it is called the "spider", that answers my second question (clutch on or off the engine shaft?) I susspected as much about the distance between the clutches. It seems if there were some way of braking the transaxel (in my case) clutch it would help, but I can understand if the engine clutch is working properly, that's not a factor. I suppose, JD is the only source of a clutch tool kit, right?.....big bucks!!!!!
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The spyder is threaded (screwed)onto the post of the stationary sheave. The movable sheave's flyweights ride up the spyder's rollers as RPMs increase. There is a spring that holds the sheaves apart that is probably broken on your clutch. That allows the sheaves to move together and essentially start the shifting process prematurely. The clutch kit has a tapered piece that you put in a vise to hold the clutch so you can take the spyder off. It also has the threaded puller to get it off the crank. A dealer is the only place to get the kit, unless you could talk them into lending ( or renting ) you a kit.
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Hi,...again, hope I don't wear out my welcome.
OK...now I got the difference between a sheave and a spider. I got a dealer about 12 miles from here, so my next step is to "suck up" to them and see if they will rent me a kit. If the clutch is shot, which I fear, will I be able to buy a complete unit without knowing the ID of my machine...like, are the clutches pretty much "standard"?
Since the thing drives fine, once I put it in gear before I start the engine, is it safe to assume that my secondary clutch (transaxle) is working OK? The thing takes off like a jack-rabbit! Sorry to keep buggin' you. My only hope is that you are like me when it comes to helping others. I'm an retired telephone man ( Christian) and I thrive on helping anyone who needs phone work, or any field of expertise God has blessed me with.....NOT Gators.....yet. Thanx again!!!I hope this clutch job will keep me busy and leave you alone until my next problem.
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Your present clutch is the 15.5 MPH version and if you buy a new one it will be the 18 MPH, so you pick up almost 3 MPH in the deal. All the 6x4 gas clutches will fit and work except for the TH version. You don't have to know your serial number. New clutches are around 300.00 There is a guy on line that sells used parts too. Your secondary clutch could be bound up also. The sleeve inside the 3 cam helix could be seized to,or bound up on,the post on the stationary sheave. Also check the 3 plastic buttons that ride on the helix angles, one or more of them could be missing.Iam also detecting another problem in your post. Your Gator is not supposed to start when it's in gear. I guess your former owner disabled the neutral switch because the clutch didn't work.
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