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clutch motor
HI,..you said:
"I guess your former owner disabled the neutral switch because the clutch didn't work."
Yep, that's why it didn't grind when he demonstrated it. I found it taped behind the passenger seat next to the fuel pump. If I ever get a manual I'll know where it mounts....hopefully. I took the muffler and belt off yesterday. I will be calling the local(almost)dealer tomorrow to see if I can pick there brains. I found a drawing of the clutch puller and the arbor to hold it in the vise. The puller looks like a plain old bolt with somekind of sleeve on it. I read somewhere that a 3 point puller is needed....where is that used, or am I imagining stuff? I'm going to the library to see if they have any info on Gators. I know they have ATV manuals. Lest you think I am too cheap to buy one, I'm just afraid, without the model number, I'll buy the wrong one. (Been there, done that)
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clutch motor
The clutch puller is actually a long bolt that threads into the center of the clutch and bottoms out on the crank. Be sure to grease the end of it before you use it, they work much better. I don't know of any three pronged puller associated with a Gator. Did you look under the passenger seat for your serial number? Sometimes they are hard to see, but are usually there. IT's on the frame rail next to the radiator top.
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Know what? I'm beginning to fear I bought a "hot" Gator. It appears to have been re-painted in spots and there are what appears to be grinder marks under the paint on the frame next to the radiator cap. I believe you said earlier, that the ID was etched into the frame and not on a tag, right? Maybe I should do like they do on TV and get some acid or whatever they use on weapons to raise the ID marks that have been ground off.  ...Whatever....I am off to the library and then to the dealer. I don't know where I read about the puller... I am constantly on the web looking up stuff. (one of my PCs crashed last night and I was on the web until 2:30AM trying to get it back up.) Yawn!!!!
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If you think you have a hot gator you should CYA and report it to the cops or sheriffs office. You do not want to be in possession of stolen property, it's not worth your good name.
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clutch motor
If you have grinder marks on the frame next to the top of the radiator, I would say you have a better than 90% chance that you have a hot Gator. If you would happen to find out what the number is and go into a dealer with it to buy parts and he puts it in the data base. If it is hot, the dealer is obligated to turn you in. As soon as Deere matches that number with a stolen Gator ( a matter of minutes )The dealer gets a phone call and he has to persue you. On top of that Deere can confiscate the Gator and you are out your purchase price. Deere takes it very seriously. I believe this is only if it was stolen from a dealership, but I wouldn't want to take the chance. I would listen to KW and make it right, either with the guy you bought it from or the cops or both.
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Gatoraider & KW,
For the sake of clarity, perhaps I should straighten out some stuff. This machine actually belongs to a friend, but to keep it simple, I acted as if it were mine. My friend is not too mechanically inclined so he asked me to work on it. Sorry if I misrepresented myself. However I will pass on your excellent advice. I was with him when he bought the thing and frankly, the guy seemed a little "shady", but he mentioned when he bought the thing, 5 years ago, it was a "basket case". I scraped the paint off the frame and there is nothing there. This brings me to ask, how would I (we)identify it to the dealer? Does Deere keep a list of stolen vehicles and are there other means of identifing a Gator?
I'll talk to my friend and the dealer tomorrow....who by the way, was kind enough to lend me a clutch kit.($119.38)Now that I see it, I don't think I would have much trouble duplicating it. the bolt size is etched on the bolt. Might have a little trouble with the arbor. The clutch is off and as you predicted, Gator, 2 of the rollers had a flat spot. 2 of them rolled easily, the other not so. The spring was not broken but appears worn on ends and very weak....plus it didn't protrude very far out of thewhat-cha-ma-call-it. Since I am just guessing, not having worked on this piece of equipment, ever, I would say that this spring is the major problem...besides the flatspots on the rollers.
My dad had a lawnmower repair shop and taught me a little, plus we built a scale model Curved Dash Olds (Popular Mechanics Magizine plans)for my son, who loved old cars. It was powered by an old lawn mower engine with a centrifugal clutch. I digress, sorry.
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Not surprising there is no number left on the frame, they weren't imprinted very deeply in the first place. Deere is supposed to have a web site for stolen Gators, but since you can't ID yours thru the engine serial number or any other way, the site would be of no use to you. Nice of the dealer to lend you a puller. Clutch rollers are not available, you have to buy the whole spyder, around 130.00 I would check the play between the movable sheave and the post on the stationary sheave before I bought a spyder. If there is alot of play there the clutch will rattle like crazy, make you think a rod is coming out of the motor.
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dear, patient gatoraider,
I detect .0015 of play between the moveable and stationary sheaves.(that's the smallest feeler gauge I have and it barely fits between the parts.) Since I am a very "cause and effect" type of person, question: how does the flat spot on the rollers effect the operation of the clutch and does the condition of the spring seem to be the cause of the original problem? With my limited knowledge of centrifugal clutchs, I think I know, but would like your expertese. Also, the sheaves are scored a little and not perfectly smooth. Is this a problem? The reason I am dwelling on this stuff is that 300+ dollars is alot to pay for something that may not be needed. The new spider (and spring) may be all that is needed...hopefully, because there are several other issues with this machine that need attention.
Side bar...can you think of any reason why your posts are being sent 2, sometimes 3 times, at different times. There is alot about this forum I don't understand (What else is new!!)ex: "Use boxes below for Web and Image Links"
Huuuuuh?
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KT,
Just re-read your original post and it seems you are not happy with your "green". right??? I just thought I'd tell you I bought a used 8HP JD riding mower about 15 years ago. I abuse the heck out of it, but I do change the oil often, and it seems to be un-destructable...knock on wood!!! I don't know what kind of "green" equipment you are running, but I just thought I would let you know my experience with JD...and this Gator, despite it's many problems (do to neglect, basically) will serve my friend just fine. He recently bought 30 acres and that's where he will use it.....a gentleman farmer.
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1 1/2 thousandths ain't much. I never measured that way, I just put them together and push down on the movable sheave and rock it back and forth on the post. If it rocks alot it's gonna rattle. What I was getting from your posts was the clutch was half way engaged or not opening all the way up at idle. That either means the spring isn't strong enough to push the sheaves apart or the sheaves are binding up to the point that the spring can't push them apart. Maybe your spring is broken and the dude that had it before you took the broken piece out and put it back together, and now your spring isn't long enough to push the sheaves apart. When you screw that spyder on the post, you should have enough spring pressure to snap the movable sheave back to wide open. When you put it together, try running the motor without a belt on it and see if it snaps open and shut. Then put the belt on and run the motor up sitting still and see if the clutches work. The driven clutch is supposed to keep the belt tight all the time. If the belt is getting loose anywhere in the RPM range the driven clutch should be looked at. A couple things on the rollers. If they slide and don't roll up the flyweights that robs engine power to make the clutch work right. As the rollers get flat spots in them the flyweights start to seat in the flat spots. As they get worse the sheaves start moving apart and you have to increase RPM to get the Gator to move. When it does move, it jumps into a higher gear right away because of the higher RPM and puts a strain on the rest of the drive train. Sheaves being scored shouldn't hurt it. I don't know why you are getting posts more than once. I'm only sending once.
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07-26-2009, 16:40 
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