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 07-28-2009, 17:04 Post: 164452
oldduffo

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Hi there,

"I never measured that way, I just put them together and push down on the movable sheave and rock it back and forth on the post." I did that, too. I just stuck the gauge in to give you an idea as to how loose it was. "Not much", I felt wouldn't cover it, because "Not much" is not the same for everyone. I didn't think the slight grooves should effect the operation too much...they are little more than scratches. Another thing I don't understand is why the belt is notched and must be 1.1 inches wide. Since the belt rides up the sheaves as the RPM increases, why the notches? It appears the width of the belt is doing all the work. Oh well, never was too bright in Physics 101.
Wonder if there is such a book as "Gators for Dummies".






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 07-28-2009, 17:32 Post: 164453
gatoraider



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I think the belt is notched because of the severe angle it has to travel around the drive clutch at take off. Notches give more ability to turn on a sharp angle. They used to be solid, but I guess engineering changed them.






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 07-30-2009, 21:22 Post: 164494
oldduffo

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Hey gator,
The belt thing makes sense. Decided to go with a new clutch. The fellow at the dealer was very helpful. He did not high pressure us, just told us his experience with rebuilding clutches. So while we wait for the clutch to come in, I started on the next problem.....the starter. I read somewhere on this forum, it might be easier to work on these "reptiles" by pulling the engine. After today, I might echo this comment.....since I had so much "fun?" today removing the starter....standing practally on my head after whacking my dome a few times on the dump deck, trying to see thru all the wires and other stuff in the way. I haven't told you about the starter problem, because I just want to work on one problem at a time.....these is plenty more. The starter spinns fine, it just doesn't engage all the time.....almost like an auto with a few teeth missing from the fly wheel. The previous owner said he replaced the solenoid, and it does look new, I just don't know if he put it together right. A couple of observations; The gear on the starter shaft (bendix) locks engaged only in one direction and I have no idea where the nylon fork that the selenoid operates goes. I have a sneaking idea that the previous owner didn't either.
....stay tuned, please.
The price of the TM floored me (170 something)and the CD at $76.00 is a bit steep also since I don't plan on making a living repairing these things.....I'll "pick your brain"....and just send you the $76.00....if you're willing to help me thru this mess I got myself into.
Or if you like, I'll send you my e-mail address and stop boring all these other folks with my rambling and digressing, who read this forum...and just bore you with my rambling and digressing. Wink yeah right Hopefully, someone else is benefiting from all the help you are giving me...which reminds me, I'd better send in my 19.00 to Tractorpoint.
God Bless!!!!






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 07-30-2009, 22:10 Post: 164496
gatoraider



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Duffo, Here's what you do. Remove the valve cores from the two rear tires on your Gator. unhook either the prop rod or the top end of the dump unit, which ever applies to you and stand the bed up and let it go over center and rest against the frame and wallah!!!! no more headaches. I don't know why I tell you guys this stuff. Your starter drive is bad. Starter drives are around 90.00 and you need a stop too, don't forget that. You will ruin yours getting it off.






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 07-30-2009, 23:44 Post: 164497
oldduffo

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Duuh, What's a "Stop"? Believe it or not, I did what you said about the bed!!!! I'm just a klutz...been know to bump my (bald) head on any and every thing! In fact, when I was working, it was a daily ritual that every one would check my head for new scars. Did you ever see that e-mail picture of the back of a bald guys head with a lawn mower tattoo on it? That was posted at my place of work with my name on it....and it resembled me, even.
(I have all 4 wheels off so I can get at the engine and stuff)






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 07-30-2009, 23:48 Post: 164498
oldduffo

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I got you last post twice.....one at 9:20 and one at 10....something. Something else must need a "stop", or whatever. Wink yeah right






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 08-01-2009, 20:40 Post: 164558
oldduffo

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Yo gator,
Sorry for bugging you on this beautiful week-end, but I gotta ask you something....else. I took off one of the chains to clean and oil it and have to ask you just what the heck is the size of the carriage bolt nuts holding the axle holding housing? It ain't 3/4 or 19MM. I drove a 11/16 impact socket on the nuts with a hammer to lossen them, but that seems a little extreem, as is the 70 ft/lbs torque. It's a good thing I had a 3 ft. pipe to put on my torque wrench.Wink yeah rightEnjoy your Sunday. PS I was surprised how easy it was to mount 2 new tires...thought it would be alot tougher.






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 08-01-2009, 21:06 Post: 164560
oldduffo

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Dear gatoraider,
When you mentioned the neutral switch being removed, I forgot to ask you where it should be mounted. Could you please tell me where it should be mounted? Presently it is just hanging there...loose with a bracket and 2 screws. I can't find anywhere it should be fastened.






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 08-02-2009, 05:36 Post: 164561
gatoraider



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18MM on the nuts for the hubs. The neutral switch is screwed into the top of the transaxle. When you put it in neutral a button on the linkage inside the transaxle hits the plunger on the switch and closes it. This creates a path for ground to the start relay so when the ign. switch goes to start the start relay pulls. The switch you think is the neutral switch is either the switch that lights the light for the emergency brake indicator, or the Gator used to have a back-up alarm on it, and it's a switch for that.






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 08-03-2009, 14:27 Post: 164599
oldduffo

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g,
OK...don't have an 18MM (Harbor Frieght set)The other side took a 12 MM socket. The carriage bolts must have been replaced. I thought the neutral switch might be the one you mentioned. Will see if I can find where the "dangling" switch could have been mounted on/near the emergency brake lever. Todays "progress"...X-threaded the bottom bolt on the started and broke it off, but luckily I got it out since I had about 3/4" to work with. Priced a stud puller at NAPA....42 bucks!!!The wiring has been "butchered". That will surely be lots more fun. My next quest will be to see if I can find some kind of wiring diagram. Hopefully not knowing the model will not be a problem.
Sorry if I am boring you with my progress, but this is someting completely different than anything I have worked on and very interesting.






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