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JD Gator only runs with choke
That little screw with the spring means alot, because it is the idle mixture screw. Warm the motor, turn screw in until lightly seated then turn out 1 3/8 turns. If it has limits, start in the center. Turn slow idle stop screw so it is not touching the stop, or just shy of the motor dying. Turn the idle mixture screw in until the rpms start to fall off and note the position of the screw. Or maybe you will have to turn the screw out to start, you will be able to tell. The idea is you have to start between the two extremes. Turn the screw counterclockwise until engine speed increases and begins to fall off and note the position. Proper adjustment is in the middle of the two. Readjust the slow idle to 1050-1100 rpm. Also your valves need to be at .005 cold. When you check your valve lash make sure the rocker arm shaft is tight in the mounting holes in the head. If those holes are worn it will change your valve adjustment and create problems.
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JD Gator only runs with choke
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are the fuel pumps rebuildable?
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Not if you've got that vacuum type I identified, they're sealed. Virtually no moving parts anyway. Last one I priced at the local small engine shop was $34 plus tax. If you want to shop around, click below for an example.
Like I said, my 2004 Kawasaki engine has been going thru them on an average of 1 every 18 months.
//greg//
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JD Gator only runs with choke
well I 60 bucks later i have anew fuel pump and the problem still exists, I adjusted the carb air /mix screw also. I dont have a tech manual so can someone tell me the procedure for adjusting the valves ?
so far:
new plug
new air filter
new fuel filter
new fuel pump
i am still noticing the throttle linkage bounces around when just standing there pushing on the gas pedal - is this normal ?
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JD Gator only runs with choke
in the fwiw dept...hopefully this will help someone in the future.
i figured out that the fuel pump (part #AM109212) is actually kawasaki part number 49040-2066. The best part of this is that I found parts to actually rebuild these pumps should anyone need to. they can be found at: http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=kawasaki_engines&mn=FC540V-BS03+4+Stroke+Engine+FC540V&dn=99910-A4210140
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JD Gator only runs with choke
To adjust the valves. Engine cold. Remove spark plug and valve cover. stick something long and skinny in the spark plug hole to feel the top of the piston. Hold what you are using and slowly turn the crank until the piston is as high in the bore as it will go. As you are turning the crank look at the valves, if they don't move 10 or 15 degrees before the high point of the piston you are at top dead center. If the valves are moving in that span, you are not on the compression stroke and you need to go around again. Valves are both at .005 As I said previously, check the rocker shaft for side play, also check the ends of the valves for dimples made by the rockers. Dimples will give a false lash reading. Push down on both valves to see if both have about the same resistance, you could have a weak or broken valve spring. Make sure your low idle speed is at least 1050 rpm. I think the linkage jumping around is the governor reacting to a miss in the motor. There is a governor adjustment, but it is too hard to explain. Have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake gaskets to check for leaks? Engine will speed up if there is an intake leak. Also take a compression test after you adjust the valves. Another idea, when you had your carb off did you check the float level when carb is upside down? When upside down your float should be almost parallel to the bowl seating surface. If it dips down in the front, you could be getting too much gas in the bowl.
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JD Gator only runs with choke
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fuel pump (part #AM109212) is actually kawasaki part number 49040-2066. The best part of this is that I found parts to actually rebuild these pumps
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Helps me, thanks. Didn't realize the metal variant was actually rebuildable. The OE pump on my Kawasaki engine was plastic, and I've been wasting my money on replacement plastic versions ever since. The fact that the case is heat-welded pretty much discourages thoughts of rebuilding. But I'll now buy one of those metal ones to have as a shelf spare for when this current plastic one inevitably fails.
//greg//
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JD Gator only runs with choke
Thanks Gator, I'll try the valves this week if i have time or this weekend...yep sprayed carb cleaner around the intake area and no leaks after i put it on.
i'll run the valves next after that if it still exists maybe the governor adjustment?
Thanks for hangin with me on this 
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JD Gator only runs with choke
found the manual for the fe290d motor
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki_Service_and_Repair_Manuals/FE120_FE170_FE250_FE290_FE350_FE400_SERVICE_REPAIR_MANUAL.pdf
hopefully that will also give me some pics to look at
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JD Gator only runs with choke
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Helps me, thanks. Didn't realize the metal variant was actually rebuildable. The OE pump on my Kawasaki engine was plastic, and I've been wasting my money on replacement plastic versions ever since. The fact that the case is heat-welded pretty much discourages thoughts of rebuilding. But I'll now buy one of those metal ones to have as a shelf spare for when this current plastic one inevitably fails.//greg//
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No sweat, hope it helps out on future repairs.
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JD Gator only runs with choke
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Helps me, thanks. Didn't realize the metal variant was actually rebuildable. The OE pump on my Kawasaki engine was plastic, and I've been wasting my money on replacement plastic versions ever since. The fact that the case is heat-welded pretty much discourages thoughts of rebuilding. But I'll now buy one of those metal ones to have as a shelf spare for when this current plastic one inevitably fails.//greg//
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I had a few minutes to poke around a bit more on this and tried an initial attempt at this....
[QUOTE=gatoraider;166687] To adjust the valves. Engine cold. Remove spark plug and valve cover. stick something long and skinny in the spark plug hole to feel the top of the piston. Hold what you are using and slowly turn the crank until the piston is as high in the bore as it will go. As you are turning the crank look at the valves, if they don't move 10 or 15 degrees before the high point of the piston you are at top dead center. If the valves are moving in that span, you are not on the compression stroke and you need to go around again. Valves are both at .005
>>> Noticed that the exhaust was more loose than the intake. intake had a nice drag on the feeler at .005 the exhaust was loose - tightened it to spec .005
>>> i think the exhaust spring is a just slightly softer than the intake
As I said previously, check the rocker shaft for side play, also check the ends of the valves for dimples made by the rockers. Dimples will give a false lash reading. Push down on both valves to see if both have about the same resistance, you could have a weak or broken valve spring.
i think i grabbed the rocker arm and the shaft (main one that both rockers ride on) seemed to be able to slide back and forth a bit
I wasn't sure how to get the rockers off at the time to check for dimples, will do this all again Friday when i have more time and check then
Make sure your low idle speed is at least 1050 rpm.
>>> how do i check this - there is no tach, i do have an old sears tach/dwell meter i bought at a swap meet last year - would that possibly work?
I think the linkage jumping around is the governor reacting to a miss in the motor. There is a governor adjustment, but it is too hard to explain. Have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake gaskets to check for leaks?
>>> last time i checked this it seemed ok but the gaskets could probably be replaced. will check again friday for leaks
Engine will speed up if there is an intake leak. Also take a compression test after you adjust the valves.
>>> previous owner told me compression was 85, manual calls for min of 57 - i will recheck this weekend
Another idea, when you had your carb off did you check the float level when carb is upside down? When upside down your float should be almost parallel to the bowl seating surface. If it dips down in the front, you could be getting too much gas in the bowl. [/QUOTE]
>>> tore the carb down again tonight and re-cleaned (wasn;t dirty) blew compressed air through every hole on it
checked fuel float and it sits higher on the side away from the needle
one thing i have found while scouring the net for answers is that others have had this exact problem, of course most never relayed what the fix was (one guy said i was his fuel pump) so I am still looking, there has to be an answer to this - frankly its driving me nuts..
open to any suggestions
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