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 12-03-2006, 22:09 Post: 137542
hardwood

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Broken; Do you rent your unit or did you buy it?






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 12-04-2006, 21:12 Post: 137577
brokenarrow



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Hardwood
When I built my house in 97 I bought it. They came and installed it (since it was new construction and I bought both systems at once they gave me a good price) I paid roughly 475 for the reverse osmosis and around 425 for the water softener installed. (those prices it may be backwards,cant remember but it was a total of $925 for both including tax).
I love the R/O system, it makes around 6 gallons a day and for the most part it takes care of all our drinking water and cooking water with seldom to never running out. Sometimes when I am cooking mashed taters AND boiling Brats plus filling the dogs water a few times we may run slow for a bit Laughing out loud.
Sorry; To answer your question --- I own it.






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 12-05-2006, 06:27 Post: 137585
hardwood

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Broken: Thanks for the response. Since I first posted I managed to nurse the old Sears back to life again, but this is probably it's death rally. When she does bite the big one, I think I'll go with a rental Culligan so the "Culligan Man", or lady, which ever can carry the salt to the basement. Thanks to all who educated me on the R/O system, that sounds like something I'll look into when the time comes for a new softener. Thanks again. Frank.






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 12-05-2006, 08:57 Post: 137600
DRankin



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One more note on water treatment systems: they generally don't tell you when they start pooping out.

The only way to know that the ion exchange on the softener is working properly over time is to test the water with a kit like the one I linked to earlier.

I would only spend the money if the ground water was real hard or if using an RO for drinking water.

But with the RO..... I think you have to test it. It will give no indication that the is a tear in the membrane or that is is worn out and just passing the water through.

I have a link below to a simple and effective tester. You just stick it in a glass of feed water and then stick it in a glass of treated water and read the difference.






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 12-05-2006, 20:42 Post: 137640
brokenarrow



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The R/O drinking water system will let me know when the filters need replacing. It has a tester in line BUT the real test is the taste and smell. As soon as you notice a difference, it is time to change filters. I beleive I only changed my filters twice in 9 years (maybe once, but I think twice). The system tells you every year or MORE if nesessary depending on your well waters quality. Me thinks they want filters sold (they are spendy) Taste is by far the best tester IMO. Thats the reason we normally get it in the first place (aside from saftey)






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 12-05-2006, 22:21 Post: 137644
DRankin



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Just to be clear: the RO is a membrane, not a filter, but it has pre-filters to remove chlorine(which is harmful to the membrane)and sediments.

It might have a post, or finishing filter also.... usually it is carbon based too.

When I talk of testing, I am referring to testing the salt rejecting quality of the RO membrane, not the pre or post filters.






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 06-18-2007, 10:39 Post: 143007
Blueman



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Any ideas out there why I am experiencing a significant drop in water pressure coming out of my GE water softener?






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 06-18-2007, 10:49 Post: 143008
DennisCTB



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 Water softeners

Blueman

I don't have a softener, just an acid neutralizer, on mine there is backflushing routine that runs 3 times a week. I assume it does it so the calcite does not get all clogged up.

Does your system have the same backflush cycle and is the timer executing the cycle as scheduled?

Just a thought.






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 06-18-2007, 10:54 Post: 143009
Blueman



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Dennis,
Yes, it has an auto regeneration cycle, normally at 2AM. I called GE, and they said the "outlet" in the resin tank may have become clogged, but they had not suggestion how to service it other than to have a GE serviceman out...fairly costly where I live.

Oh, and still not getting email notification of replies??

Sean






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 06-18-2007, 15:20 Post: 143017
Murf



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Blueman, this is a topic were being VERY specific helps with the diagnosis.

You said "pressure drop", but I suspect you meant to say "drop in flow rates" and not pressure.

If it is indeed a drop in flow, and GE has a suggestion as specific as the tank outlet, then you can pretty much guess thats a known problem.

If you can fiddle around with the connections a bit you might want to try applying some 'input' water pressure to the 'outlet' side of the tank and see if you can flush the blockage free.

Sometimes you can take the fitting off right at the tank and if so, possibly see, and even get a pair of needle nose pliers on the blockage.

You might also want to see if you can find some sort of solvent product that is safe to use in potable water systems to disolve the blockage.

Best of luck.






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