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 01-24-2008, 16:58 Post: 150674
Murf



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 Hot Water Heater Replacement Tank or Tank Less

Dennis, the simplest way to do it is to cut off the male end and replace it with a replacement female end, about $3 at any home center.

In my case it was an old hose that had cracked from old age anyways, until you mentioned it I had completely forgot about having to change the end.

Best of luck.






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 01-24-2008, 17:27 Post: 150675
kthompson



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Dennis, if your water heater is electric be sure you cut it off before draining. Being where you are it probably is gas. Pick up a washing machine hose, female ends on both ends. If you need to drain the water heater up hill, just use a drill powered pump or do you have a sump pump that you may be able to connect to or drain to it (be sure the hot water will not damage any part of this). Just wondering, and if missed sorry, are you draining your tank with the water cut off or leaving the input open to push out the sediment? I would finish any draining by letter having the water pressure flush the tank even if you don't back flush it as Murf suggested. If after doing this you are unable to close your drain fully and end up with a drip, you can either get you a faucet that screws onto the hose fitting end on the current drain and cut it off or just use the solid end for a garden hose.

I have seen calicum build up on electric water heater elements until you would almost fail to remove the element. kt






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 01-24-2008, 19:37 Post: 150679
bialecki



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 Hot Water Heater Replacement Tank or Tank Less

Dennis I too have high pH with my well water (pH of 4.8 as 7 is neutral), I use Sodium Carbonate (soda ash) to neutralize my water and the sodium eventually builds up in a manner that you described. Are you sure it is Ca versus Na? I found that I was able to pull the lines from the oil fired hot water heater and use a commercial Na deposit removal agent to clean out the scale. After that I checked the chemistry of my solution, I was injecting too strong of a sodium carbonate solution, so I backed off, I now use 2-1/2 coffe cans (16 oz metal can) of sodium carbonate to 10 gallons of water. My chemical feed pump settings are set at 80% of full capacity (my pump capacity is 30 gallons/day). Of course it only pumps when the well pump kicks on.

With these settings I have not had a problem in over three years.

Also you will find that after you clean your hot water heater it will be more efficient as well.

Also seeing that your HW heater is ~ 10 years old sounds like a new one may be in order. I found the best on the market for a oil fired HW heater is a Bock.
http://www.bockwaterheaters.com/technical/faqs.html






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 01-24-2008, 19:41 Post: 150680
DennisCTB



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murf | view 150674
Dennis, the simplest way to do it is to cut off the male end and replace it with a replacement female end, about $3 at any home center....



I didn't want to sacrifice a hose, so I bought the two specialty brass pieces $8 here in NJ. So I worked on this since noon today, up and down to the basement, and just cleaned all the aerators and turned on the "Oil" fired water heater.

Giving her Murf''s enema losed it up just a small amount, I had flushed it several times from the top prior to the enema. This would be great for those who have such a big build up that the drain is clogged, mine was not.

I have quite a few pieces of what I previously thought was lime, it floats suggesting that it is broken up pieces of the old plastic pipe, now I will see if it melts to confirm that it is plastic.






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 01-24-2008, 19:55 Post: 150682
DennisCTB



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Quote:
Originally Posted by bialecki | view 150679
Dennis I too have high pH with my well water (pH of 4.8 as 7 is neutral), I use Sodium Carbonate (soda ash)......



Our PH is only mildly acidic something in the 6.5 range, the nuetralizer tank takes Calcite, the tank gets filled once a year, there are no adjustments, it gets back flushed a couple of times a week on a timer.

If I have to replace my oil fired 50 gallon water heater, I want to think about a non oil based unit with the high cost of oil, and possibly tankless.






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 01-24-2008, 20:26 Post: 150684
bialecki



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Just bought a Ranni propane heater for the loft over my garage, what a great heater, a breeze to install. They are also well known for their tankless propane water heaters. http://aestheticenterprises.com/ranni-tankless-water-heaters/2006_04_16_archive.html

Check the net for best pricing and ratings.






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 01-25-2008, 08:03 Post: 150697
DennisCTB



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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisCTB | view 150647
...* Is the substance appearing in the faucet light in color (egg shell)?* Is it uniform in color?* Does it float?* Does it melt/burn if heated over a flame?* .... So I guess I will test out the next batch of chips I get from the aerators to determine if it is plastic or calcium!



Ok I put the white stuff from my strainers in a teapspoon and heated it, it melts and it smells like plastic. I guess after spending 7 hours on flushing this yesterday it is pretty impossible to get that stuff out. Now I know what it is. Is it a health hazard ? Can't be good for you. Since it is caught in the strainers it is contaminating the drinking water So Sad






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 01-28-2008, 15:46 Post: 150867
DennisCTB



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Now that I know that it is plastic in the tank and not calcium I called Therm-Flow the manufacturer of the hot water heater. They said they have not gotten many calls since 2000 when the the class action suit was brought.

The support person said that flushing would not get rid of the particles but that I could skim them out of the tank. Here is the process:

1) Drain the tank to below the pressure relief pipe
2) Remove the pressure relief valve and pipe
3) replace the pressure relief valve with a nipple
4) slowly open the fresh water valve allowing the flowing PVC pieces to skim off into a bucket

Since there may be still be large pieces of the dip pipe decaying in the tank you may need to repeat this process periodically.

He also said since the tank is 10 years old it might be just as well to replace it if I am concerned about the PVC contamination.

I asked him if there were any problems with tank less systems and well water, and he indicated that tank less systems could get clogged fairly quickly compared to a tank system.






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 01-28-2008, 16:36 Post: 150871
kthompson



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Dennis, two quick thoughts...and they do not sell the tankless do they? So the tankless is not as good because they do not make and sell them or they do not make and sell them because they are not as good. I have no idea which and know no one who uses tankless. Here most are electric 80 gallons tanks.

Second point, if the drop tube is what is decayed, then your cold water MAY not be pushed to the bottom of the tank to be heated. Normally the cold water is pushed to the bottom of the tank to be heated to raise to the top when heated. But the tube prevents the cold water mixing with the hot wated as it comes in. So if your water starts out hot and then gets cooler rather quickly you probably would benefit by replacing your tube with a metal one. Since you are having the problem (my understanding) with a plastic drop tube, why not replace it any how when you clean the plastic pieces out if you can find one. kt






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 01-28-2008, 16:40 Post: 150872
DennisCTB



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Quote:
Originally Posted by kthompson | view 150871
.Second point, if the drop tube is what is decayed, then your cold water MAY not be pushed to the bottom of the tank to be heated....



I already had the dip tub replaced 2 years ago and I have tons of steaming hot water, I just did not know what it was then and that the decayed dip tube was still in the tank in pieces and bits.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Plumbing Forum

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