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 05-01-2002, 09:37 Post: 38001
DennisCTB



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 Flushing Hot Water Heaters and Well tanks

I have a Oil fired 50 gal Hot water Tank that is supposed to be flushed twice a year. If you don't it eventually sends you some nice muddy water to your bath tub.

I have been very negligent in my duties and spent last night flushing it. Its way better now but I think I'll do it again tonight.

Now my question. Is it necessary to drain/flush my well tank also?? I have never have. I have a drain spiget at the bottom of the tank but I don't have any instructions on how to do it if needed, anyone do this??






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 05-01-2002, 10:26 Post: 38007
DRankin



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 Flushing Hot Water Heaters and Well tanks

Do it the same way as you did with your water heater. There will be a layer of sediment on the bottom that will come out kind of gloppy at first but will run clean after 10 or 15 minutes. You do not have to worry about exausting the tank unless you turn off the power to your well pump. The pump will keep the tank pressurized just as it would if you were drawing water from another level in the pressure tank.






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 05-02-2002, 09:21 Post: 38055
DennisCTB



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 Flushing Hot Water Heaters and Well tanks

I tried flushing the Well Tank and it seems that the way it is designed eliminates the need to flush it as there was no sediment coming out just clear water. Ont the Hot water tank I did not have to flush it a second time, its clear today.

After I drained the Hot water tank the connection on the Hot water side started a slow drip leak at what looks like monster bolt with some sort a rubber or composite gasket.

I did not want to try and tighten this as I thought I could break the solder on the copper pipe. I thought since the flushing had run cold water through the pipes the dimension had changed to cause the leak.

When the water was hot the leaking stopped at the fitting. I plan on leaving it alone, is that a good plan??






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 05-02-2002, 10:03 Post: 38057
DRankin



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 Flushing Hot Water Heaters and Well tanks

First rule of troubleshooting: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Nothing goes to sh-- faster than old corroded fittings on the hot side of water heaters. In terms of your pressure tank, it must be a fiberglass shell or similar material with an internal bladder. I have a big old steel tank that compresses air at the top as it fills with water. The rubber bladder type should have an air fill valve at the top that looks just like the valve stem on a tire. It is used to pre-charge the bladder with a specified amount of air. Because this design fills and feeds from the bottom it tends to purge itself of sediments.






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