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 08-10-2002, 04:31 Post: 41124
TomG

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 Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to

Good grief. Creative I'd say; just guy humour my wife probably would say.

I used to go to my boxing gym to get away from my now X. I didn't have this Board then but I guess it would have been about as good as the gym and saved me the trips across town.

Gee, I used to make the senior welterweight cut (147 1/2 lbs. but that's minus a lot of sweat). That was some years and about 30 lbs. ago. Umm, in the context of this discussion I just don't think I'll go there.

I'm a rested boater too, or rather paddler . So, where is paradise? I figured it out. It's a creek with enough water to paddle most of the way and no portage trails marked on a 1:50,000 topo map. There are trails, they just aren’t on the map. That would be about 5 miles from home.

Sure is surprising how far up the creek the pike and bass go. I suppose if we would have looked for a trail around a small falls, we would have found brook trout--even better. I could have done guy humour too.






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 08-10-2002, 06:46 Post: 41125
cutter



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 Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to

A bit off this sh_ _ _ _y topic, have any of you installed new points lately? I bought two sets of everything, from points and condensors to wires and plugs for my boat. The new points do not have the small tube of lubricant in them as they used to. I thought perhaps it had be inadvertantly left out until I checked the other box and found none in there either. I am wondering with all of the "improvements" in ignition systems, if the plastic carrier is now a self lubricating material. I don't want to scrounge around in my saved "treasures" for the old sets looking for the stuf if I don't need to use it, or damage the material by applying something that should not be on them. The other surprise I had is the fact that the expensive Champion marine wire sets I purchased come with the distributor ends not installed. You thoughtfully get a bag full of assorted terminals and caps to try and "crimp" on with a set of plyers. I suppose in order to save them ten cents in manufacturing costs, they expect you to go out and purchase a special crimping tool that you will use one time. I sat in my breezeway for an hour with soapy water and needle nose plyers along with two sets of these these expensive "lifetime warranty" wires thinking about the letter I am going to write to Champion as I poked and squeezed on them!






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 08-10-2002, 08:47 Post: 41130
Peters

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 Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to

Cutter;
I think the idea is that the wire set is a universal. I bought a set a year ago like that and all the lines are longer than needed. I don't know where they expected you to stuff the extra wire.
The points that I have seen use Ultra high Molecular weight polyethylene for the bearing. The same material used in conveyor belt wear areas etc. No it does not need lub. Lub will oxidize in the high oxone environment. You are better off with out it. Have you not noticed that points last much longer now. When was the last time you used the points file.
Peters






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 08-10-2002, 09:15 Post: 41132
treeman



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 Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to

In the Sept. issue of This Old House magazine there is a article about septic systems. www.thisoldhouse.com It has the same do's and don'ts as most of you have been saying.






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 08-10-2002, 09:29 Post: 41134
cutter



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 Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to

I suspected the same on both counts. The points file was out last year when I purchased this particular boat and wanted to make certain the power plants were OK. It had sat in a boatyard for five years, abandon by the owner. That is how a poor man such as myself can move up to champaigne footage at beer prices. I still have a problem with paying premium prices for exact fit parts and receiving K-Mart style ignition components. Unfortunately, there isn't a Crusader dealer nearby so I purchased after-market wire sets. Even though they are brand name and top of line the inconvenience of having to mess with that type of thing gets my old goat. How many people would go to the expense of purchasing the special crimping tool the manufacturer recommends in the instructions for spark plug wire terminations other than a mechanic? I will be certain to check inside the box next time before going at the task at hand, my mistake.






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 08-10-2002, 11:26 Post: 41136
Peters

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 Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to

Cutter you need to determine what power plant is in the boat. Ie GM Vortec 3800, Ford 5 L etc, as with the out drives the are from one of the three. Not likely Chrysler unless quite old. You should be able to get the basics at resonable prices, ie GM without the Crusader mark up.
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 08-10-2002, 11:26 Post: 41137
DRankin



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Tom, I am glad you beefed up a bit. 147 is nearly birth weight for a healthy baby in my family. Wouldn't want to mistake you for a wrinkled pre-schooler.
Cutter, not only have I not seen a set of points since Hector was a puppy, I haven't even seen a distributor! Current inventory: new and newer Toyotas and a little Deere. I can figure out how the Yanmar fires off, Damned if I can figure how those Toyotas do it. Must be like that old thing about Thermos bottles.....keeps hot things hot and cold things cold and how do it know which one is which?






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 08-10-2002, 15:07 Post: 41140
cutter



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 Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to

They are 4.3 GM's. I wanted marine "grade parts" if there is still such a thing. What I purchased is supposed to be just that, at any rate they match in features what is there now, including the gaskets on the caps.






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 08-10-2002, 17:05 Post: 41143
Peters

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Mark;
Just take normal grade, marine on it and jack the price 50%. I think if you get the silicone wires and boots that is about as good as it gets. The racing set are about the same except the wire is a little thicker.
Peters






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 08-10-2002, 22:20 Post: 41146
cutter



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I believe that is what I ended up with Eric, the wires are too thick to fit into the looms. Just another pain in the butt to work around. I'm glad they are guaranteed for life, I don't want to have to mess with it again. The biggest difference I have noticed is in the caps. They sometimes have a gasket to seal the mating surface with the distributor and sometimes have a vent, depending upon the application. My distributors are vented at the base of the aluminum housing with fine mesh screens, about as good a system as you can have. I had a Mercruiser in '86 that turned the components of the electronic ignition as well as the cap and rotor green due to lack of ventilation. They came out with a fix, a vented cap. Only problem with that is water can enter through the cap as well.






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