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 08-10-2006, 07:12 Post: 133146
Art White



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Flat face couplers are used on skid steers for the most part and haven't hit the compacts or ag tractors. On all the dump trailers we sell they have a leg built on them that holds the box up for servicing which is a good idea. The self contained hydraulic systems depending on manufacturer seem to be slightly different as some are only power up and some are have power down working a two way cylinder. We've taken a few options on our trailers and kind of made them standard on stock units like the security box for the pump and battery so they are located on the hitch but locked up to make it a little harder for thieves.






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 08-10-2006, 10:25 Post: 133151
kwschumm



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Rigging up an integrated box support is a good idea. Shouldn't be hard. Thanks, Art.






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 08-10-2006, 15:36 Post: 133171
kwschumm



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

On my tractor the hydraulic lines to the rear are 3/8". Art recommended half inch lines to the dump cylinder but there probably isn't any advantage to that from a performance standpoint due to limitations in the rest of the circuit. However, using half inch lines does simplify the connections since I don't need any 1/2-3/8" reducing fittings. Would there be any problem using half inch lines in a circuit if other lines in the circuit are 3/8"?






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 08-10-2006, 16:27 Post: 133175
earthwrks

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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

As you mentioned the 3/8" line reduces your performance right off the bat since that is the largest line from the tractor pump so going up to a larger line won't hurt, but going down to an even smaller line will reduce performance more. Also the sharp bends and fittings in a circuit reduces performance. All this would be an issue if you had to accurately meter or control a mechanism or drive a hydraulic motor for precision indexing, but you're not so go for it. An example of using smaller fittings and hoses is on my backhoe after letting an unqualified hydraulics shop work on it the backhoe arm would turn so fast it would nearly jerk me sideways. Reducing the fittings to 1/4" as they entered the cylinder reduced it to an acceptable level. The principle here was I reduced the volume to the cylinder thusly reducing reaction time.






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 08-10-2006, 20:28 Post: 133183
kwschumm



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Thanks EW. I've been involved with some other "flow" type applications where cavitation and laminar flows came into play and didn't want my ignorance to screw something up.






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 08-10-2006, 21:37 Post: 133188
Art White



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Ken, to have the hose larger allows for a larger reserve. Could you imagine being a fireman on the end of an inch and a half hose with a full hydrant pushing and nothing but a trickle! After enough hose that's the resistance that just killed the flow! Just like an electrical wire! It does work!






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 08-11-2006, 07:29 Post: 133191
Murf



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Ken, the other thing most people forget about any dump box is that it normally comes down EMPTY.

The more restriction there is to unpressurized flow, i.e. nothing but gravity and the weight of the box to put it down, the slower it will come down. Since a 2 way cylinder on a dump box is not adviseable the one single line is both the up & down flows. With a long small diameter hydraulic line you could be waiting for the box to return to full down for some time.

Best of luck.






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 08-11-2006, 07:45 Post: 133194
kwschumm



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Why is a two-way cylinder not advisable? That's what I bought but it's not installed yet so it's still returnable.






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 08-11-2006, 09:16 Post: 133199
earthwrks

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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Not to worry KW, you have the right cylinder. All you need to do is run one "in/out" hydraulic line to the bottom of the cylinder. BUT you will need to come up with some sort of a vent such as a small engine, cartridge-type, fuel filter clamped on a fitting or pipe at the top. Some 4x4 truck outfitters sell these for venting axles and transmissions. The main reason being you need a vent is that when you lift, air on the top end around the rod, has to go somewhere which is vented to atmosphere. Second reason is eventually oil will get past the piston and it has to go somewhere. Conversely, when you lower the box, the same amount of air will be drawn in. If there is no vent filter, you get dirt sucked in which will destroy the cylinder walls, seals, piston and rod. Depending on dust conditions, you might want to remotley mount the vent filter to keep it out of the dust.

FYI: If you did use a true one-way cylinder, it, by design does not need a vent because the rod literally fills up the cylinder wall cavity leaving no room for oil---this type of cylinder is common on hydraulic bottle and floor jacks, telescoping cylinders on big dump trucks and trailers, and snow plows---where in all cases gravity or weight provides the opposite direction to force it closed.

And further, if you decide to cap off the top hole instead fo venting it, you will effectively create a big shock absorber compressing the air inside so you may only be able to raise the cylinder partially or at least until the pump cannot overcome the built-up air pressure.






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 08-11-2006, 09:42 Post: 133200
kwschumm



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 Adding hydraulics to dump trailer

Thanks but I don't understand this at all. The existing tilt cylinder at the rear of the tractor has two ports connected to two quick disconnect couplers. I was planning on disconnecting the two tilt cylinder hoses and connecting two hoses from the dump cylinder in it's place. Why won't this work?

And how would a single port cylinder hook up to a two-port QD system? Hook to one port you have pressure, hook to the other you have return. How can one QD coupler do both?






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