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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, didn't mean to cause a mind-melt.
It's just physics at work. A 2 way cylinder (power both directions) pulls the dump box down, if the linkage and cylinder lebgths are not perfect, the cylinder will start to bend or twist things, or rip welds open, like thiose on the dump linkage and mounts. It can make far more power than the rest of the machine can withstand.
If you have a 2 way cylinder, don't worry, use it, but as EW mentioned you only need to connect it to the port furthest from the extending piston rod. The other port should be capped with a vent to keep dust and crap out of it. You can buy vents at any hyd. place, or online from places like Harbour Freight or Northern Hydraulics.
The remotes on your tractor normally work as a set, but will work fine singly too, just hook one line to one port, either one will work. The remote valve on your CUT has a single handle that actuautes 2 valves linked together. When you move the lever one way, 1 port gets pressure, the other connects to the return to sump. When you reverse the lever position, the ports reverse roles, now the other line has pressure, and the first line is a return. If you use just one line, the lever puts pressure to it in one direction, but moving the handle the other way puts pressure to the unused port (causing the relief valve to open and dump the flow) and makes the connected line a return line.
Clear as mud, huh ???
Try it and see, just be sure to have the unused port on the cylinder open to breathe, air out on extension, air in on retraction, or it will become a big air spring.
Best of luck.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Light goes on! Thanks Murf and EW for the great help. This weekend the cylinder gets installed and then I'll be able to measure for hose length. Hopefully by next weekend it will be up and running.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, this is the breather I was mentioning.
You can find it at most hydr. shops, or just take a bolt, a drill press and some really fine steel wool and make your own.
Best of luck.
Link:
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Thanks, Murf. Now I'm worried about how fast the dump box might take to drop but I guess that will be revealed after testing.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Ken, you CAN use both sides of the cylinder, just be *really* careful on the downstroke that's all.
I mean REALLY carefull.......
Best of luck.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Murf, I was thinking of using both sides as my backup plan. Maybe one of those travel limiting shaft collars would keep me out of trouble on the downstroke.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KW: I think you're asking for trouble by a.) using power-down AND b.) doubling the chances of ripping something like a mounting point or brackety out/off by installing a stop of any kind--a failure of this sort could be catastrophic to you and/or the trailer. It just doesn't make sense for this application to use power-down in any form.
But I'm jis' sayin'.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
I hear ya and don't want to rip anything apart. Powering the cylinder down was my backup plan only if the box drops too slow. But now let's call that plan C. Maybe plan B should be adding some weights to the front of the box. Heck, I don't even know if it's a problem yet.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
KW: Maybe part of plan b would be to use a garage door spring (some rated at 175 lb.) that will roughly the same closed-and-open length as the cylnder instead of a weight since depending how vertical the box is, the weight would have minimal effect on pulling the box down, especially if you had the box dumped backed downward over a hill. Personally, for what you're doing and the design parameters you have, I don't think you will have any problems with either lifting or lowering speeds wiith just a plain, basic 2-way cylinder plumbed as a 1-way without weights, springs, etc. So let's see what the "Testing Department" says and how that compares to "Engineering."
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Argh. The 4" tie rod cylinder is too thick and won't allow the dump bed to drop all the way. A 3.5" welded cylinder might work but I'm going with a 3" to make sure. Another week or two till engineering tests begin.
Anyone need a brand new 4x24 DA cylinder?
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