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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Just a clarification on cylinder capacities. The "push" capacity of a cylinder is based on the area of the 'bore', not necessarily the rod size. The "pull" on a double acting cylinder is the area of the 'bore area minus the rod area'. For force is either direction, it's the area described above times the system pressure.
To really get a feel of how much push you need to get the box started into the dump position, you need to multiply the gross weight of the box and contents by the difference in the dump moment arm and the center of gravity of the load. In other words, if the center of gravity of the box is 4 feet from the hinge pin, and the lift cylinder pivot pin is 1 foot from the hinge pin, you need 4 times the lifted weight to move the box. In addtion, and maybe more important is the angle and orientation of the cylinder under the box. If the cylinder is on a 30 degree angle, and the cylinder pin is at the same level as the pivot pin, the vertical lift component of the cylinder is only 40% of the cylinder "push capacity".
These are rough examples, but you can see that to lift 4000lbs from the examples above, you would need (4000 x 4)/.4, = 40,000 lbs. The orientation of the upper cylinder pin to the box pivot pin can change these numbers, but these are the things to look at to determine the size cylinder you need.
We use 4" cylinders at 1500psi for our 2 ton dumps.
beagle
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
At last, almost finished trailer. The trailer isn't a bad deal for the price, but it's not perfect. One of the 1" holes for the cylinder pins wasn't drilled all the way through and had to be filed clean. The bottom cylinder bracket also wasn't quite welded straight so the cylinder didn't line up perfectly. Again, a little filing and that was fixed. And the packaging and shipping was piss poor. But for about $1k, shipping included, I have a 1-ton dump trailer. The only problem now is that when the trailer is fully up it won't come back down without a little help. The solution? Don't raise it all the way up! Here's a pic of the trailer in the down position.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Here's one of the trailer in the raised position.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Here's a pic of the trouble area. A 4" cylinder was too thick to fit so I ordered a 3". Turns out that was too thick too. The bottom cylinder clevis mount bracket is mounted very close to the pull bar. The solution? A thick stack of washers to space the pull bar down 1/2". If I had done this before the 4" cylinder would have worked! A 2" cylinder would probably fit without any interference.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Wow. Big files.
I guess I will go move the sprinklers and make some lunch and do a load of laundry and maybe wash the truck while one of them downloads........
:}
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
Sorry, they should be smaller now.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
OK, so I exaggerated a little.
I did make lunch though.....
Have you thought about changing to a ball hitch? It would give a lot more swivel in the woods than that pin hitch.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
I am trying to discern how the wheels are attached.
It looks like there is no straight across axle, but instead the wheels are set in tandem and there is a pivot between each set of wheels on either side.
Did I get it right?
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
I've been thinking about dumping the pin hitch. By cutting the pin hitch brackets off a 2" channel trailer coupler could be bolted on. I think I'll do that, the pin hitch was a pain to get hooked up. I cut down a couple of bronze bushings and nested them together to get to a 1" thickness required by my spare ball mount. Then I couldn't find a 1/2" hitch pin so I ended up bolting it all together.
Your guess on the wheels is correct. The two wheels on each side bolt to a weldment. The weldment in turn slides onto a 3/4" axle and pivots around the axle.
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Adding hydraulics to dump trailer
I added a pic of how the tandem wheels are mounted.
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08-14-2006, 13:46 
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