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 03-28-2006, 14:40 Post: 126795
kthompson



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 BLADDER PRESSURE TANKS

Have about a motor that is having a hard time to start? Could it have a bad switch in the motor or if it has a starting capacitor it could be bad or you could have ants or such that have built home in there making it hard or slow to start.

Let the pressure run down and listen. If you place your hand on the motor you may feel it trying and clicking off due to overload switch kicking off a few times.

If the motor is not trying to start up right when the pressure drops look at the earlier suggestions. That should be a sign the power is not going to it as quick as it should. I think it was mentioned but look for something such as pitted points or ants on the points of the pressure switch.






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 03-28-2006, 14:49 Post: 126796
kthompson



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 BLADDER PRESSURE TANKS

Sorry for the late thought.

Take the cover off of the pressure switch. Have some one else run the pressure down. You should see the points come together and hear them click and the motor start all within milliseconds of each other. The pressure should show some sign of either stablizing or increasing very quickly also.

If the motor is running fine and the water level is low and giving the pump a while to run with no water pumping just keep listening. If the motor is running with no load (not pumping) it will be a very fine hum and you probably can tell it is running without a load. The sound will change if and when it is pumping water. You will probably hear the water and the motor picking up load.

I think this would give you clear direction for problem. Of course the best time to work on water pump is when you are dirty and sweating and no water to wash with. The next best time is when it is cold as a well driller's rear end. There is a reason for that saying.








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 03-28-2006, 15:57 Post: 126801
kthompson



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 BLADDER PRESSURE TANKS

WW,
I think he fixed his first problem and on 3/27 posted another problem.






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 04-10-2006, 07:41 Post: 127460
kthompson



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 BLADDER PRESSURE TANKS

PVC and Code,

Funny how it is not allowed on air lines, which I think operate well within the limit of the PVC range.

A plumbing supply dealer told me the reason is with air, PVC can explode throwing material as a bomb. Found that hard to believe until last summer under hot metal roof...a joint blew. Glad no one was in the shop or under the shed where the line blew back to. Yep, I put back PVC, but it is almost totally covered by wood.






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 04-10-2006, 12:09 Post: 127494
kthompson



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I don't beleive I would run any type of fuel in a PVC or any other type of line that could burn. Boy what a shock it would be when melted.

I have know of plastic water line putting out fire that was started on purpose. Seems the homeowner was not that smart to know it would melt. Got to love it.






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 04-10-2006, 13:12 Post: 127500
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WW,

You bring up a good point. I wonder how you should indicate or warn for such as a fuel line. If it the dedicated type material that does to the trained person. But galvanized pipe can be used for water, air or gases. Also black pipe is used for air and gases. I think either is fine by code but either way know both are done with the metal pipe.

I don't think the rigid copper is used for anything other than water but copper tubing is used for propane and natural gas and water lines in slabs.

A QUICK WARNING. It is not normal in my part of the world but in some areas the water lines were used for an electric ground connection. If you break the metal pipe with PVC you need to take care of the ground circuit.






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