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How to safe guard Hot water Heater Burst
Dennis,
My oil-fired water heater is, according to the installation tag on it, now 32 months past it's 30th birthday, it was installed in May 1982.
The previous owner swore by the practice of flushing the tank twice a year to remove any sediment in the bottom of the tank. Since buying the place in 1999 I've done the same thing.
The theory is that when sediment builds up in the bottom of the tank it does a bad thing, it insulates part (the bottom) of the tank causing unequal expansion and contraction when it calls for heat, or fills with cold water. This is a recipe for a crack.
As back up though my heater is sitting in a large tray about 4" deep, and as you mentioned, there is a water & oil shut off and power disconnect if the sensor in the any moisture, water or oil.
Best of luck.
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How to safe guard Hot water Heater Burst
I was pretty good about flushing the tank during the 15 years I had mine as well. The old tank had a single anode rod but the unit was built in such a thoughtless way that it could not be removed unless you uninstalled and disassembled the unit. So I never changed the anode rod.
On that water sensor valve have you ever tested it bu pouring some water in the tray?
Is the sensor also 30 years old? Who is the manufacturer?
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How to safe guard Hot water Heater Burst
I suspect the tanks are not the same quality as they were when Murfs unit was made. We recently built and the plumber let me know what brand he wanted (AO Smith USA built brand) for that very reason. If you read the ones on the floor at say Lowes a lot that affects the price is how long they are warranting the tank for. My guess is a lot of electric water heaters (most popular by far here) last like Murfs with little care that were installed in the 60's and 70s for 30 or more years. Don't forget those units were not insulated as well and that may have something to do with the life also but metal expert will have to address that.
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