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Bouncy Trailer
Murf
You love to argue and say nothing.
If you raise the Ball one Foot as you so mentioned then when you load the trailer you will either have too much or not enough weight on the ball. Remember (unless you want to argue the facts as well) no less than 10% of trailer weight on the ball and no more than 15%. So if you load a trailer that is going to meet those specs of no less than 10% and no more than 15% and you load with 60% to front of trailer axle and 40% to the rear and I know you have no use for one if you like to jack the ball up, but for the people who use the correct equipment and that would be a weight distributing hitch if tongue weight is 500 or more pounds, than the load is correct. regardless. Care to argue that? I want to hear it.
Your math is very weak and if it has C channel, I or box channel rails would be very irrevelant what would be revelant and you neglected to mention would be the distance from the ball to the center of the first trailer axle. Yeah! maybe in your trailer case it made a 3 degree difference for a 1 foot raise at the Ball, that is NOT always the case and is exteremley isolated, due to brand and type. To be able to use such Blanket and General info for everyon, would sure make my job easier. Damn! the shorter the distance from Ball to axle the greater the degree change when Ball is rasied or lowered.
You can load a trailer any way you want and if you like a pitch on the trailer that is fine with me, but SAFETY and every Manual I have here in my office clearly says that Class IV ball should Never have less than 10% and Never more than 15% of the total Trailer weight.
Keeping the trailer level to the truck towing will keep even weight on all Axles which will give you the best uniform ride possible, but as Peters said, if one axle is out of aligment or dogging, then that will make a difference in handling.
Now for a slow learning Canadian, I will spell it very slowly for you.
a. Level when empty
b. load the trailer evenly from side to side
c. load 60% of trailer load towards the front and 40% towards the rear of the trailer.
d. Class IV should never exceed 10,000 pounds
e. Never have less than 10% of the Gross trailer weight on the ball and never more than 15% of gross trailer weight on the Ball.
f. Use a weight distributing hitch if ball weight should exceed 500 pounds.
e. Pitching a trailer may cause uneven weight distribution and loss of operator control.
So care to elaborate what you don't agree with. These are all taken from the Dodge Towing Guide and when we Job Rate a customer and sell him a truck this is what we go through. So Please inform me where I and Dodge are wrong. I want to be sure I give my customers the correct information. We sell a lot of Dualies and single axles etc and have fifth wheels installed and Goose necks etc etc so come on Murf, I am dying to hear your B.S. pour it on me.
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Bouncy Trailer
Short
I am not anal about my numbers either, but how long is this trailer that If I raise a foot at the ball will only make a 1/3 of a degree change at the axle? I am having a tough time accepting Murf's 3.8 degree change.
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Bouncy Trailer
from the Calif website
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl648/dl648pt12.htm
Load-distributing hitches are designed to distribute the hitch weight relatively evenly to all axles of the tow vehicle and trailer. The tow vehicle and trailer should be in a level position (attitude) in order for the hitch to do its job properly. Here is how to check:
With the tow vehicle loaded for a trip, measure the distance between the vehicle and the ground at reference points, which you can establish, in front and rear. Keep the figures handy for later use.
Hitch the trailer and adjust the tension on the spring bars so the tow vehicle remains at roughly the same attitude (i.e., if the rear drops an inch after hitching, the front should also drop an inch).
Inspect the trailer to be sure it is level. If not, hitch ball height should be raised or lowered, as necessary. You may need spring bars rated for more weight if you cannot keep the tow vehicle from sagging in the rear.
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Wing.... Take a deep breath or two. Let's all chill a bit here.
We started this thread talking about towing an EMPTY trailer and reducing the bounce.
Seems to me that quoting the various regulations and Dodge specs and tongue loads relating to LOADED trailers does not address the issue.
Muff's suggestion would seem to concentrate more weight on the trailer axles of an EMPTY trailer and it makes sense to me that that would change the rate bounce.
Everyone seems to agree that raising the ball or reducing the tire pressure on a LOADED trailer is counter productive and dangerous.
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go to GOOGLE and type in attitude of a trailer and then look at and read the 7th Title. It should read "TOWING YOUR TRAILER SAFELY The tow vehicle and trailer should be in a level position (attitude) in order for the hitch to do its job properly. Here is how to check: ..."
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Well..... I tried.....
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WW and Murf.
With dual axel trailer the tongue weight increases as you increase the tongue height. You transfer the pivot point from the front axel to the rear increasing the load on the rear wheels and the truck. You lift the front wheels and lower the rear.
You need a lot of weight just on the rear of the trailer, like a dump trailer as Murf mentions a while back, to over come the additional unloaded weight of the two and a half feet of trailer, wheels, axel and fenders.
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Dave, you are of course right, it should be 0.384°.
There are several other engineers on this site, perhaps one or more of them would care to verify the math?
It seems I proved my case based on undisputed physics and mathematics. I hardly feel either could be considered BS.
"Your math is very weak..." care to elucidate?
"Now for a slow learning Canadian, I will spell it very slowly for you." please keep cheap shots and personal attacks out of the facts. Children rely on such tactics when they have no other arguement to make. This is an adult forum.
"...when we Job Rate a customer and sell him a truck..." Can I take it from this then that you are a D/C sales rep.? Is your entire trailer knowledge based on a D/C trailering brochure?
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dr
I made my statement quite clear and was replying to several posts and wanted to be certain that people reading these posts were NOT misguided. You may go back and reread my posts and you will note I made it known for empty and loaded and Peters made the best suggestions for Axle alignment and even carrying multiple inserts and Balls.
Murf decided he wanted to single my posts out with his sarcasisims and DR, this has happened a few other times on other threads and that is why I am aiming my replies at Murf. Please do NOT involve yourself, I have no beef from you and bought my JD based on a lot of your posts over the last couple of years. I researched what you said and never found any B.S. and you clearly stated OPINION when it was just that. Towing is serious and for someone to come on here and post some silly and half-ass posts without explanations could lead to an accident. Dealerships have been sued as well as Salesmen for giving information such as Murf is so Generaly doing. If what I posted is followed, it will be a SAFE load for empty or loaded trailer regardless and if there is problems with HOPPING or DOGGING, then Peters had the correct and intelligent replies.
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sarcasisims ?????
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